[garyc]

Hi,

Can anyone confirm whether the 3 expansion ports on the back of the Lexicon MC-1 can take a 5.1 truehd audio feed?

cheers

Gary

[Ianfromnotts]

have a look at this it might help you achieve it but not totally ideal I suspect

http://www.smr-forums.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=314

[garyc]

WOW - cheers that takes some understanding

maybe be worth a try to see what its like

cheers

Gary

[Ianfromnotts]

Hi Gary you might have to do some more digging on it as earlier options to address stereo bypass were even more complex an involved external wiring mods. I would be interested in your findings as I might want to go this way myself one day

[garyc]

I'll try the expansion ports first, it is only 5.1 rather than 7.1 but my pc only has 5.1 at the moment and it looks like it will be easier to wire up!

Gary

[Shin Akuma]

I don't know, are you guys saying "MC1 Got Analogue Bypass" in it without doing any physical alteration in MC1.

[Ianfromnotts]

This was something I came across the other day but didnt look at it further, as far as I can see the 6 to 8 analogue channel input mod requires internal mods but a stereo version does not

[garyc]

The manual just makes reference to them as 3 expansion ports capable of accepting stereo PCM signals upto 24bit/96khz. These inputs completely bypass the digital signal processing path, including the crossovers and effects, passing the audio signal direct to the following channels:-
A to the L and R
B to the centre and sub
C to the L and R surround channels

What does anyone think - will it work?

Gary

[Ianfromnotts]

I dont think the MC1 will split the signal so you would need to find a way of getting 3 SPDIF out of the source and feeding each in seperately

[garyc]

just a thought, is there any reason why you can't just bypass the mc1 all together and use a 'Y' adaptor straight from your sound card into your amps?

cheers

Gary

[kasumi]

Gary, if you have volume control on the soundcard output then you can connect the soundcard to the amps. To do this it would be better to use some Omron signal relays rather than using a 'Y' adaptor.

With reference to Shawn Foggs MC-1 8 channel bypass mod it does require internal modification of the processor - that's what those instructions relate to the use of.

I will be adding 8 channel bypass to my own MC-1 very shortly using high quality relays (one for each channel as opposed to Shawn's 2 quads design). I will also be using off-board socketry (yet to be defined), again differently, to just keep the best possible circuit layouts for quality.

I may offer upgrades for DC-1, 2 & MC-1 since Shawn is in the USA not UK in future, but I'm currently re-capping all my monoblocks & some tweaks, plus I have a backlog of some RF laserdisc out boards to do as well. Ho hum.

[Ianfromnotts]

Hi Kasumi I have emailed Shawn about his 8 channel bypass mod and it looks very slick to me, especially with all the changes being inside the unit and no external boxes. But as you say Shawn is in US and it makes things more difficult so I would also be interested in your solution too. No real hurry I am just thinking, at some point, I will go hd in one form or another and a by pass may be a good option to consider

[garyc]

[QUOTE=kasumi;4540824]Gary, if you have volume control on the soundcard output then you can connect the soundcard to the amps. To do this it would be better to use some Omron signal relays rather than using a 'Y' adaptor.
QUOTE]

Hi

thanx for info,

do you have any further info on those omron signal relays?

cheers

Gary

[garyc]

Hi Ian,

Just thought you might be interested in an update on how far I got with those expansion ports. Managed to get a pc sound card to output a 96khz signal via s/dif, put the mc-1 in bypass and it works, to a point, its probably the best sounding 2 channel audio I have heard from the mc-1, but I'm unable (so far) to split the 5.1 s/dig signal into separate pairs. I did try a better quality sound card which will ouput 96khz in separate feeds but it would appear that the in coming audio signals are only 48khz and will not up convert them to 96khz.

So I'll keep a look out for any alternative solutions but in the meantime have ago at direct signal to the amps

garyc

[kasumi]

Hi Ian,
Yeah I'm still undecided on my layout since I'm busy right now but the eight yellow composite sockets that run from back top left to the right are prime for removal (since I can't see anyone using them in favour of svideo) and fitting high quality chassis phono's instead which, I do think, would not only work very well, make connection easy to see and also label accross the top for each channel. This is my new 1st option currently. This is what I meant by 'off-board', I meant not on the existing sockets/boards. Apologies for the confusion.

Gary,
Well yes incidentally rapid electronics are shifting some non rohs stock for 49p each! +vat, bargain. 5v though.
Search for 77-2676

Rohs compliant are HERE with a PDF for each.

[garyc]

Hi Kasumi,

thanx for the info, sorry but how do you hook up those relays in replace of 'y' adaptors.

Also interested in how you get on with that mc1 upgrade.

cheers

Gary

[kasumi]

Order some stripboard as well and using the PDF mount the relays all up in a row paying attention to the pinouts when soldering on the reverse side. Don't forget to break the copper tracks on the reverse side under the relays. It's quite easy to do, the relays change over when activated by your 5vdc (from wherever) and switch between the 2 devices properly isolating the other.
If you use a 'trigger' output 5vdc or 12vdc (depending on relay coil v) from a device then it is wise to fit a signal diode (1N4148 will do) accross the coil (in reverse) to discharge shut off current.

You could mount it in a metal box with some chassis phonos for 2 sets of audio in with another set for the audio out, 3 sets in total.

[Ianfromnotts]

Hi Kasumi,

Yes using the composite inputs sounds a good way to go for the MC1 but it wont work too well for the DC1/2 as they only have 5 composite inputs. If you are looking to offer the upgrade commercially this might limit interest.

I have a DC1 at present which I think is a bit more raw sounding than the MC1 but my room is so dead I need all the life I can muster and to be honest prefered the DC1 in my room so no real intentions of upgrading. Well not until a newer 7.1 switching processor comes along at a silly price that I could play with for a while and then sell on if necessary.

[garyc]

Hi Kasumi,

thanx for all the info.

Anyone know how easy it is to replace the power supply in an mc1 as mine has just given up!!!

cheers

Gary

[kasumi]

Hi Ian,
Yes I noticed that the DC-1 had a different layout. I'm not in it for any commercial way, I'm too lazy See when I do my own I'll add better connects, new radial capacitors & faff about like a twonk with it for ages changes this a that, I get carried away.

I can do it the same as Shawn's if you want and connect straight to the same pins and use 2 quads like his, in fact he's actually now done a website so you can order the kit to do it yourself if you are up for it.

See here > Linky think he's still adding to the site/building it.

If you don't fancy fitting I can do it or someone you know local maybe to save you postage cost etc back & forth?

Gary,
Yeah I think they charge a flat fee and it's not cheap. But, it's usually one or two items on the switch mode supply and can be easily fixed. I noticed a post about it somewhere but it'll have to be tomorrow coz I'm off to bed.
Pity your miles away or I've of checked it out for ya.

[Ianfromnotts]

The post is on the lexicon owners forum by Shawn post number 37565. I have it in a pdf in case of emergency. I also looked at alternative parts and came to the conclusion that buying one from "lexicon" was cheapest option.

[garyc]

Originally Posted by kasumi

Hi Ian,
Yes I noticed that the DC-1 had a different layout. I'm not in it for any commercial way, I'm too lazy See when I do my own I'll add better connects, new radial capacitors & faff about like a twonk with it for ages changes this a that, I get carried away.

I can do it the same as Shawn's if you want and connect straight to the same pins and use 2 quads like his, in fact he's actually now done a website so you can order the kit to do it yourself if you are up for it.

See here > Linky think he's still adding to the site/building it.

If you don't fancy fitting I can do it or someone you know local maybe to save you postage cost etc back & forth?

Gary,
Yeah I think they charge a flat fee and it's not cheap. But, it's usually one or two items on the switch mode supply and can be easily fixed. I noticed a post about it somewhere but it'll have to be tomorrow coz I'm off to bed.
Pity your miles away or I've of checked it out for ya.

Hi Kasumi,

So would you be interested in doing an 8 channel bypass upgrade and/or power supply replacement(sounds like a resistor gone bad)?

cheers

Gary

[kasumi]

Hi Gary,

Have a look here > http://www.smr-forums.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=269

There's CSE 01423 359054 in the thread. You can prolly fit a new one yourself mate. Like I say I'm miles away and shipping is a nightmare.

[garyc]

thanx for the info.

does the power supply require any soldering or is it just connector plugs?

Gary

[Ianfromnotts]

Hi Gary - you obviously havent found the thread I suggested it tells you have to change the PSU, the cost to buy new from lexicon, alternative makes and options, how to fit ( no soldering) or alternatively the cheaper option which resistors are likely to have blown and what to replace them with - good hunting

[garyc]

Hi Ian,

I did have a look but seem to be going in circles

Do you have a link?

GAry

[Ianfromnotts]

Hi Gary not one that works - at the risk of getting shot I will try to post the pdf. If that fails drop me pm and i with an email and i will mail a copy to you

[garyc]

thanx Ian.

[kasumi]

http://forums.smr-forums.com:8080/read?37587,5e#37587

you might have to click enter as guest, then click back on your browser and then 'refresh' the page (or click the above link again) and it should show the thread... you can at least click and see the pictures on the thread with this as well.

some other extra info here too...

http://www.smr-forums.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=56&PN=3

[Pop up Dragon]

Hi
Just to put my two pence worth in. I've owned both the DC1 and MC1,my old DC1 is now in my friends system and working very well,though on its second PSU.When the first one went bang i swaped mine from the DC1 just to confirm and away it went.So we ordered up a new PSU from CSE and fitted it to the DC1.No problems at all............for a week then dead again.We rang them and the chap there said that every now and then they have a PSU go after a short while.Not to worry he popped anotherone in the post .When it got to my friends in it went and still "dead".So we boxed it and sent it of to CSE.It was returned three days later with a little note saying that the mains input socket had a dry joint, nothing else.So my frind rings them up and says what do i owe you "It's ok " say the very nice man have it on us.When asked if they had this problem before the answer was "yes we've had a few".
He went through a list of other DC1 faults,some of which i can remember,
1.intermit' audio check those output sockets(heavy cables strain them)
2. older DC1's have a problem with DD and DTS and can sometimes lock up(this can be sorted)
3.E09 in main display,DTS board faulty(for those out there wanting to add DTS sorry there are no more boards)
4. buttons on unit fail to work,due to lack of use because we all use the remote control

There might have been others but if there was my mind fails me.

ONE MORE THING.
The PSU is a switch mode type,for those who dont know .....THEY CAN HOLD A CHARGE FOR A LONG TIME if this discharges across you it hurts(you feel a big prat when you do it twice)