Wall mounting plasmas in new houses [Archive]

Merritt

05-02-2003, 5:02 PM

:hiya:

Apologies if this has already been done but I am a 'newbie' so can I be excused please :blush:

I am about to buy the new 42" Panny and would like to wall mount it.... Problem is that I have one of these houses that has entire plasterboard type walls. i.e. plasterboard, .75" air gap, breeze block, 1" air gap, then bricks on the outside... Is it still possible to wall mount the screen?

Im assuming the safest way would be to put very long bolts through the entire wall and fix fromt the outside of the house?

Has anyone else done similar?

Thx

Steve

zAndy1

05-02-2003, 5:25 PM

Interested in the answer to this also as I'd like to wall mount mine too and it's a brand new house. It should be possible but I sure as hell wouldn't like to do it myself!

Andy

themmings

05-02-2003, 6:23 PM

I'm gonna be doing this to my plasma too (well - as soon as I get my final confirmed order upto Mr Fernand that is - hang in their Joe).

My plan was to get HD coach bolts - (as a many as the Unicol bracket will handle) and drill them through the plasterboard well into the breeze blocks - although, I wasn't planning on going right on through to the other side (external wall)!

I think the Unicol bracket can handle 6 - 8 bolts, I'm kinda' hoping this is gonna be enough.

Net net - the plasma won't be hung on it until I've tried hanging off it :eek:

Timbo:)

Merritt

05-02-2003, 6:56 PM

Timbo,

If you were planning to use coach bolts, how were you only going to go into the breeze block i.e. how are you going to get nuts on the end of the bolt?! (unless you know of some clever device for inserting into breeze blocks from a distance?)

Cheers

Steve

codlord

05-02-2003, 6:58 PM

I have done this and it's still hanging there with no problems.

This has been covered before (do some searches on "plasterboard" etc). but this is what I did:

I had the usual plasterboard 'glued' onto the blockwork, so there was plasterboard, then a gap, then the blocks.
This is what you can do:
1) Drill a big hole (about 20mm diam) in the plasterboard for each bolt so you can get to the blocks.
2) Drill a hole in the block for the wall bolt (the ones which leave a threaded rod sticking out of the wall).
3) Fix the wall bolt into the block and tighten.
4) Cut a small length of metal tubing to go over the thread of the bolt that is now sticking out of the wall - this is so the bracket can be tightened against the bolts and not the plasterboard.
5) Mount your wall bracket over the threaded rods and attach washers and nuts.
6) Cut off any excess thread from the wall bolts.
I used 3 bolts along the top and three along the bottom, and while I was at it I cut a channel in the plasterboard for all the wires and a wall-mounted centre speaker. It's not a 5 minute job but the end result is fantastic and well worth it.

tman

05-02-2003, 7:04 PM

Uh, I'd take a step back and check things out first. I wanted to do exactly the same thing in our (new) house. I had it all planned, with the Unicol wall bracket (which is pretty heavy itself).

I marked out all the wall positions, and started drilling. First hole, straight through the plasterboard like butter (no support there). Drill carried on, and on. Where were the breeze blocks! It turns out there aren't any!!! Most new houses, I know now, use thermalite bricks. Good for insulation, useless for support. They turn to dust when the drill hits them. So, a spot of repair work later, and a call to the supplier to replace the wall bracket with a desktop stand.

There are, effectively, no supporting walls in my house. Even external ones. All the weight goes down through the (very hard) bricks into the concrete foundations. Even if you could find a bolt to go all the way through to the bricks, you'd still have a lot of unsupported weight at the front. I had nightmares of the plasma litterally tearing the wall down!!!

Even the studs are so far apart, you can't use them either!

So the moral is, check your walls VERY carefully, especially so if you are in a new house.

themmings

05-02-2003, 7:07 PM

Perhaps coach bolts is the wrong term. :eek:

Maybe long HD screw type bolt things, that would be long and strong enough to dig deep into the breeze block and support the plasma.

Perhaps some one else can chip in here. Drilling through the internal wall right through to the outside wall seems a bit excessive to me - but what do I know, I can't even spell DYI:blush:

clam

05-02-2003, 7:28 PM

I'm with Codlord on this one. I used his method after reading one of his earlier posts, and it worked a treat. I did have some expert help with the "sleeve" of "metal tube" over the Rawlbolt, my father is a centre-lathe turner so he made up some stainless spacers for me.
I went for 8 fixings in the end as I wanted to be REALLY sure, as it turned out you could probably lift the house on the bracket now !:grin:
It does however depend on you having good concrete blocks in your wall. like Tman says, if they're Thermalites then I would think twice. I think in general that the Thermailte blocks are white and smooth, so a quick investigation hole in the wall should make it clear.

harrisuk

05-02-2003, 7:36 PM

Worth doing a search for posts on this topic. I have seen mounting on stud walls mentioned before. Mine is mounted above the fire place secured using 8 long bolts.

Old house though so bolted to substantial brickwork.
42" screens although not as heavy as big CRT screens are still
30 - 40 KG so make sure it is properly mounted.

Definate two man job.

Merritt

05-02-2003, 7:36 PM

Thanks for the replies guys - I guess I need to go and find out if I have breeze or thermalite blocks in my walls!

Steve

codlord

05-02-2003, 7:42 PM

Another thing to note is that sometimes "hollow" blocks are used - I found some solid and some hollow ones in my wall - although I still managed to fix a wall bolt into the 1 hollow one (but I would not have wanted to mount the screen if they were all hollow).

As well as a visual inspection prior to starting it may be worth drilling a small hole for each bolt before you start so you can see if the blocks are hollow or not.

boltoa

05-02-2003, 7:48 PM

I used the "dowel" method as detailed on one of the other thread on this subject. 14mm dowel and 14mm masonary drill required. I cut 8x10cm lengths of dowel, and drilled 8 14mm holes to just over 10cm (inc plasterboard) into the wall (breeze block). Stick quite a bit of "no more nails" into the hole, then hammer the dowel in until it is flush with the plasterboard. You can use the no more nails as filler if there are gaps around the holes as well. Then used 90mm pan-head wood screws with washers and mount the wall mount. After allowing 24hrs for the glue to cure, I chin-uped my own 110kg weight off the wall mount :) with absolutely no movement. I deemed this good enough for a 35kg plasma. Now had it up 2 months with no probs. And I don't expect any.

Just one more alternative method, but I reckon this was easier than all the metal spacer stuff. All materials from B&Q.

Andrew

Merritt

05-02-2003, 8:14 PM

Andrew - that sounds like it may work irrespective of breeze blocks or thermalite & I like the sound of it.... Did you buy the 14mm dowel & if so where from ?

Steve

greyt

06-02-2003, 1:50 AM

I have installed a Panasonic 42" onto a plasterboard wall glued to thermalite. I used the Unicol tilting wall bracket.

Being sad, I have photos of the various parts of the installation and have the details of the bolts and special fixant used.

If anyone is interested I can post the photos and details to my web site at the weekend.

Basically Rawlplug make a bolt for thermalite and a special "gel". The gel is put in the drill hole in the thermalite, this is partially absorbed by the thermalite and sets very quicky to strengthen the hole and encases the bolt. The gel is horrible stuff but does the job. You have to work quicly to get the bolt in before the gel sets.

I Cut the plasterboard away, fixed 10mm mdf to the thermalite using the bolts. Then mounted the bracket using bolts going through the mdf into the thermalite. Maybe overkill but it isn't going to fall in a hurry!

Only place I could find the kit was the builders merchants Travis Perkins.

Graham

Merritt

06-02-2003, 2:23 AM

Graham :smashin: I'd love those instructions / details please... Don't forget to post your URL ;)

Cheers

Steve

TheBigApple

06-02-2003, 2:43 AM

I fit CCTV equipment for a living and have to install monitors on wall brakets which are a damn site heavier than any plasma i've seen.

There really is a simple way to mount heavy equipment even on walls with thermalite block behind the plaster. Similar to Greyt's method but without using that gel, which is a pain in the arse.

1.Mark up holes.
2.Drill holes with a 7mm drill about 100mm deep.
3.Get some Gripfill or no more nails and push the nozzle as far into each hole as possible and squirt away.
4.Put a brown rawlplug into each hole.
5.Wind a big screw ( about 85mm long ) about two turns into each rawlplug.
6.Using a precision tapping stick, tap each rawlplug into the hole until about 50mm of screw is left sticking out of the hole.This will have pushed the rawlplug into the thermalite block along with the Gripfill.
7.Leave to set ( Gripfill will set strong enough to hold in about 4 hours )
8.You can now unscrew the screws leaving the rawlplugs set in the wall and then fix the bracket on the wall with the screws and a washer on each screw.

If you then need to take the bracket down e.g. if you sell the house or want to move the plasma, all you need to do is fill the holes rather than replaster the wall.

Hope this helps

Monkeyboy73

StooMonster

06-02-2003, 3:53 AM

Originally posted by themmings
Perhaps coach bolts is the wrong term. :eek:

Maybe long HD screw type bolt things, that would be long and strong enough to dig deep into the breeze block and support the plasma.

Perhaps some one else can chip in here. Drilling through the internal wall right through to the outside wall seems a bit excessive to me - but what do I know, I can't even spell DYI:blush:
Frame fixers

Even though I have an old house, and 50" plasma is hung above the fireplace attached with 160mm bolts and polyester-resin (not going anywhere), there are parts of my house that have been extended. In these parts there are plaster board on battons with a gap and then brick, I use nylon frame fixers (with grip-fill) to attach heavy items to these walls; they have heavy ribbing to ensure a tight hold even in weak materials such as aerated blocks.

Perhaps you could also use the battons in the wall as support.

Check ScrewFix for your options http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?ts=89094&cId=5

StooMonster

yasa22

06-02-2003, 3:21 PM

Seems like everyone is having fun with New house.

I mounted mine as follows.

Drilled all the way through to the outside wall.
Bought 3 6mm threaded rods, using the securing bolts supplied by Philips, Spale (can't spell) bolts. I inserted them the wrong way round into the holes on the outside.

Inserted and cut the rods to approx correct size, then tightened from the inside using two nuts locked on the end of the rod going through the mounting whole on the bracket.

The Spale bolts open and lock onto the brick as they tighten. I could hang of each and there was no moment. So I considered this safe enough to hang the Philips plasma on.

Finally I cut the extra length of threaded rod and cemented over the wholes on the outside of the Wall.

I have also mounted a 14" TV and a video onto a plasterboard wall just using the heavy duty plugs that open out as they are tightened and that is still hanging some 5 years on.

bluebear

06-02-2003, 7:43 PM

Take a look at my thread
<http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=53229&highlight=bluebear>

Bluebear.
:cool:

mikeq

06-02-2003, 7:45 PM

If securing through to an outside wall (through a cavity) be careful as moisture can travel along anything which bridges the cavity and find it's way into the house (plasma:eek:) . Should be okay with threaded stuff as the moisture should run around the thread and fall off the bottom of the bolt/rod.

kevshed

06-02-2003, 8:14 PM

Hi all,

I mounted my panasonsic 42" to a stud wall ... had no issues so far (1 year on).

Find the studs in the wall, i was lucky that i had a center stud, bang in the middle of wall. 12" centres on the studs, meant i had to put additional fixing holes in the panasonic bracket. In the end, i used 8(i think), plasterboard fixings into the wall itself, followed by another 8 fittings into the studs (had to make holes in the bracket).. i think its easy to get over worried, all the weight is sheer on a plasma, so there is little leverage to help pull it down.

Kev

boltoa

06-02-2003, 8:39 PM

Merritt, got all materials including dowel from B&Q. They're usually with the wood trim type stuff (dados and edging). Total cost was under a tenner and I think it took less than an hour, plus curing time for the glue. Pretty easy.

Oh, forgot to mention I drilled small (2mm IIRC) pilot holes in the dowel for the screws as they were pretty big, but that might not be totally necessary.

Andrew

Phil_Yeoman

06-02-2003, 11:33 PM

It really is not a good idea to bolt trough to the outside wall. Although plasmas are relativly heavy you dont have to go crazy with securing them the wall.

Remember they are static and because they are thin they produce very little pulling force on the fixing (force produced by having center of gravity a distance away from the support point). Suprisingly the plaster board itself would quite happily support the weight although following the laws of physics when supporting £4000 of equipment wouldn't give you a peacfull nights sleep.

The best solution I have found is to use injection fixing and treaded studs. The fixing actually streanthens the block so you dont have to worry about cracking etc. I then wind on a nut to act as a back spacer and finally put the bracket onto the studs using nilon nuts. You can buy all the stuff from screwfixdirect.com (http://www.screwfix.com)

How strong is this stuff, well it is used to hold up the roofs in mines :smashin:

Phil

bluebear

07-02-2003, 11:57 AM

If securing through to an outside wall (through a cavity) be careful as moisture can travel along anything which bridges the cavity and find it's way into the house (plasma) . Should be okay with threaded stuff as the moisture should run around the thread and fall off the bottom of the bolt/rod.
mikeq/Phil_Yeoman,

You are correct about moisture crossing the cavity, I was also warned about this by my building friend.

but mikeq has a good point about the threaded bar stopping the moisture running around the thread to the plasterboard, that I had not thought about before.

I did also seal it at both ends, but one thing I forgot to do is to PAINT it !!

The dry-lined walls in a new house are Not very good at holding heavy weights, the insulating breeze blocks are like powder, you would be lucky to mount a xmax card on them!

I know the threaded bar to the outside wall is over kill, but it gives me a good nights sleep after watching a night of viewing on my brilliant Panny D4.

If you have a studded wall, then you don't have a problem, just fix the mount to the wooden batons.

Running the cables in the wall is another story, but well worth the trouble...

Have Fun,

Bluebear.
:smashin:

big.hal

07-02-2003, 12:58 PM

I've got mine fitted to the plasterboards using heavy duty rawlplug expanding plasterboard bolts. Its been on the wall now for 7 months and still there!!.

harrisuk

07-02-2003, 1:26 PM

It is at times like these you appreciate the build quality and construction of Victorian built houses.

Mounting one of these on a brick chimney breast is and easy easy thing in comparison to what has been discussed in this tread.

very scary........

StooMonster

07-02-2003, 1:48 PM

Originally posted by big.hal
I've got mine fitted to the plasterboards using heavy duty rawlplug expanding plasterboard bolts. Its been on the wall now for 7 months and still there!!. I'd keep my fingers crossed if I were you ... one of my friend's neighbours attatched a 50Kg CRT to plasterboard with heavy duty rawlplug expanding plasterboard bolts, they came home one day and not only was tv on floor but plasterboard was snapped in half (and the boards next to it); pulled down half their living room wall in their new build house.

Also, my local hi-fi dealer told me about a customer of theirs who hung their plasma as you descibe; they had a similar experience but with shattered plasma on the floor. :eek:

StooMonster

greyt

07-02-2003, 6:04 PM

Steve,

I have put a few pictures at http://greyt.inetcam.com/TV/index.htm

The site will be slow since it is over satellite broadband :-(

The main picture of interest is the Rawlplug bolt that is designed for Thermalite.

Graham

Phil_Yeoman

07-02-2003, 8:19 PM

greyt

This bolt is an expanding bolt. These are nor good for thermalite as they tend to shatter the block. It would be better to use treaded rod as this causes not reasure on the blocks structure other than that needed to suport the load.

Phil

greyt

07-02-2003, 8:26 PM

Phil,

You are right that a normal expanding bolt is no good for Thermalite.

Rawlplug claim these bolts are specially designed for thermalite. If you look at the design of them you will see that they expand only by a few mm. I think this is more to seat the bolt in the hole than really grip tight which a normal expanding bolt would do.

Merritt

07-02-2003, 8:38 PM

Guys - I have just been to Travis Perkins and spoken to a couple of guys there... They have sold me some special thermalite plugs that look like elongated propellors (like the type you may find on a boat but a longer and thinner... They are 50mm long, and you have to drill a 10mm hole in the wall and hammer them in. Diameter wise they are about 20mm across but apparently as you hammer them in, the 'fins' cut into the thermalite and hold tight?

I have got 8 of them and 8 bolts that are 80mm long... Obviously I need to put some spacers inbetween the plug and the wall mount but has anyone else seen these?

mikeq

11-02-2003, 6:18 PM

Originally posted by bluebear

but mikeq has a good point about the threaded bar stopping the moisture running around the thread to the plasterboard, that I had not thought about before.

Yep, that is why brick ties usually have a twist in them or some kind of circular barrier thing. The moisture travels from the outside wall to the inside wall (condensation/heat etc)

I knew my Civil Engineering would come in handy one day:lesson:

Merritt

11-02-2003, 6:24 PM

Well thanks for the replies.... I am going to be attempting it this weekend. Last question, what size diameter bolts am I likely to need for attaching the wall mount to the wall.... Am I correct in saying that the brackets have 10mm? diameter holes in them for the wall bolts? Thats a bloody big hole!

I went out and bought a load of bolts and 'special' plugs recently but looking at them I think the bolts are too small (5mm diameter) with a 10mm spanner type head... hmmmm although 8 of em should be more than enough to support 30kg?? :god:

Cheers

mikeq

13-02-2003, 3:28 PM

make sure the head of the bolt will not go through the hole, may need some washers.

chicken balti

13-02-2003, 6:43 PM

My house is two and a half years old. When I bought it I spoke with the builder about fixing the wall bracket for a 14" TV to a partition stud wall, non-load bearing, non-exterior and definitely no breeze block, just a cavity! I was told that heavy duty cavity fixing would do the job. I was somewhat scpetical of this as there is considerable torque on a wall bracket holding up a 14" CRT, so I went round to one of the houses that were still being built and spoke to the plasterer. He said the same thing! He told me that the walls were stronger than they looked but cavity fixings would be OK.

I gingerly did what I had been told, after all the house was new, if I had a problem I could get the builder to sort it out. Well, after two and a half years the TV is still there. I used the same fixings for the wall bracket for a 37" Panasonic plasma in the master bedroom and the whole thing is rock solid.

One word of caution. Plaster skimmed walls are NOT drylined walls. Skimmed walls will only ever be as good as the material behind them. Proper stud walling, delicate and brittle though it may appear, seems to be perfect for the job.

Merritt

13-02-2003, 6:50 PM

Chicken Balti.... I would probably agree with you if the walls are battoned i.e. attached to wood battoning with screws however id be a little concerned about hanging such a lot of weight from a plasterboard that is simply 'glued' to the thermalite..... The top surface of plasterboard can be simply peeled off by hand - and I'd be a little worried of the entire board being peeled off the wall!

Im being a little over protective and going to use 12 special plugs, and bolts.... I REALLY don't want to come home and find my plasma in pieces on the floor...

Cheers

chicken balti

14-02-2003, 1:08 PM

Merritt,

Your call. I agree that it just doesn't make sense but I spoke to the 'experts' and they all agreed that it was OK. I haven't had a single problem, no loose fixings and no degradation whatsoever. By the way, there is no timber battening on any of the walls holding up the plasterboard sheets, thin folded aluminium (and I mean THIN) angle was fixed to the floor and ceiling to which the plasterboard sheeting was screwed. Sounds dodgy I know but modern building methods and all that. Its not a Barratt home by the way :)

harrisuk

14-02-2003, 5:03 PM

If it works fare enough. My personal opinion is that any one who attaches one of these things to a stud wall, Plaster board etc without proper consideration (Fixing to uprights, batons, metal rods and the many other suggestions made to make these things safe) has alot more bottle than I have.

I feel better knowing mine is attached to solid victorian brick work by eight 3inch coach bolts.

If it comes off the wall it is taking the whole lot with it !

Phil_Yeoman

14-02-2003, 5:49 PM

A plasterboard and misconceptions. Plasterboard has a better strength when fixed to the wall useing the plaster dab adheasive than when using batterns (try pulling the bloody stuff off!) The adheasive penertrates the paper and bonds with the substraight. The subseqent contact area is huge compared to using screews and batterns. Typically 30% of the board area is bonded rather than less than 5% using screws.

Like I said before though this type of fixing doesn't give you a good nights sleep.

Phil

philb

22-02-2003, 11:56 AM

My house was built in 1970,how on earth do you know what walls you got????:confused:

jxvaug

05-11-2005, 12:57 AM

greyt, please could you send that info to me: boro86uk@yahoo.co.uk thanks a lot i am putting a LCD 32" dell in the bedroom

andrewkay

05-11-2005, 5:36 AM

Whatever happens don't bridge the wall cavity (between the outer bricks and the blockwork) by fixing it from the outside. This could result in dampness and other issues and problems caused by this action would not be covered by your 10 year NHBC house guarantee.

You need to fix it to the plasterboard or to the inner skin of your cavity wall. You do need the correct fixings (cavity or wall), but there are plenty of alternatives. A platerboard "spreader plate" is available for some brackets, for example the Vogel plasma brackets, and the load is spread using two horizontal plates with the bracket mounted onto the plates and the TV mounted in turn. Or you can use fixings that go through to blockwork.

Andy

Ticsmon

05-11-2005, 8:13 AM

I used heavy duty plasterbaord metal fixings from B&Q, the ones that fold in when you tighten the screw and they are holding my PWD8 fine, before I hung it though I swung on the wall mount to make sure it would hold. :eek:

Dave W

05-11-2005, 9:41 AM

I have thermalite blocks and dot and dab plasterboard and I just used large screws and plugs in the thermalite after filling the holes with no more nails.

Just drill your holes, fill em with no more nails, put your plugs in then leave it for the no more nails to harden then attach the spacer block of wood to bring it level with the wall and screw the mount to that. It took my full weight at full tilt with no movement and I'm not exactly small. :rotfl:

I can take some pictures if you really need em cos I moved the telly now to a stand I had made for it and the wall has 2 lovely 2 by 4 battens in it, the wife is not happy. :nono:

Merritt

05-11-2005, 10:01 AM

Ok guys - I have put my wall mount instructions back on line for a little while... They can be found here:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/steveb.merritt/wall_mount.htm

Edited to say...
used heavy duty plasterbaord metal fixings from B&Q, the ones that fold in when you tighten the screw and they are holding my PWD8 fine, before I hung it though I swung on the wall mount to make sure it would hold.
I would be VERY careful about attaching something this heavy to the plasterboard alone as I have heard horror stories of entire plasterboard panels coming off the adhesive dabs with the plasma still attached!

Good luck..

Steve

kevandalice

05-11-2005, 3:04 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v113/kevandalice/d812e093.jpg

is this thermailite blocks or breeze blocks?

Dave W

05-11-2005, 4:26 PM

If you get a small screwdriver and try to push it in to the blocks and you can't then they are not thermalite. If on the other hand, the screwdriver can be pushed in rather easily then they are thermalite.

Scotty306

05-11-2005, 7:17 PM

Merritt

06-11-2005, 8:37 AM

Thermalites are white ie. same colour as the plaster in your plasterboard, those blocks look grey.

How tight were the screws holding that socket back box in place?
It's only an indication, but if you can get a good fixing into red plugs with normal screws then heavier fixings should be ok too.

The thermalite in my house isn't white - its the same colour as that shown in the picture... and its everywhere. It is however very good for noise insulation!!

Steve

av2diefor

06-11-2005, 9:18 AM

The picture shows Thermalite blocks, Durox blocks are white.

Both are pretty hopeless for fixing to, aim for the mortar joint, thats where the best fix is secured ;)

Merritt

06-11-2005, 11:10 AM

Or use proper thermalite fixing plugs :grin:

Steve

av2diefor

06-11-2005, 11:24 AM

Merritt

06-11-2005, 11:32 AM

The problem is the lightweight blocks have no density, they are designed for insulation.

I remember when they were launched, i went with my father, the rep gave one to my Dad with a proprietory fixing, he said feel how strong the fixing is, he pulled it out :grin:

The rep was gobsmacked, my workers and i build these walls all day long and i hate them, we cut them with a handsaw for gods sake!

I havn't seen a fixing yet that works for these blocks, first rule of building is you cant fix strong to weak.

I know what you mean but you should really try the plugs I have listed on my site... they are very good. You wouldn't be able to pull one out without some serious toolage when the bolts are in place.... Give em a try, they are great for heavy duty apps

Steve

MAW

06-11-2005, 12:10 PM

We have no trouble with thermalites, none at all. And the ability to cut them with a hanndsaw, or in our case a DeWalt alligator makes in wall speakers a doddle. We love them.

Rahosi

06-11-2005, 12:29 PM

When drilling any holes for hanging things on walls, drill at a slight to moderate downwards angle. This is less likely to pull out the wall than a straight fixing as the fixing then tends to pull INTO the wall. This is additional help to other fixing methods.
If you do this, you might want to consider a slightly longer fixing to achieve equal depth of fixing into the wall.

Other points:-
When rawplugging a hole in a 'solid' or a plasterboarded solid wall:-
Never leave a plug flush with a tiled surface, the screw might crack the tile as the plug expands.

Rawplugs should be driven past ANY surface (timber, tile plaster, render etc) into the building material behind. There is little pulling strength in surfaces. Allow for this when choosing the length of your screws etc. Avoid loading surfaces!

Always put a screw into a hole to check a hole is deep enough BEFORE inserting the plug. If it isn't deep enough, when you tighten the screw, you might end up jacking the surface off the wall (breaking it!) or breaking the screw.

If a screw is very tight withdraw it, draw the thread of the screw across a bar of soap which will lubricate / ease the fixing.

cochese

12-06-2006, 9:18 PM

could anyone tell me what blocks is have in my wall behind the plasterboard?

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b72/hat_uk/IMG_3720.jpg

i would take the light switch plate off but it's wedged in tight!

can anyone tell me what would be the generally recommended way for me to fix my 42" panny wall bracket to the wall?

SillySausage

12-06-2006, 10:32 PM

In our new house with thermalite blocks, I drilled through the plasterboard and installed 8 8mm x 120mm screwed rods with some 'glue' from screwfix made for the job.

I can link to the stuff I used if outside links are allowed on the forum.

Then the backplate was screwed to these and plasma duly mounted.

If you do it properly there is no need to be worried about installing plasmas on any sort of walls.

cochese

12-06-2006, 10:44 PM

thanks for the reply, if you can't link to the items could you tell me what the name of the rods and adhesive are please?

SillySausage

13-06-2006, 6:33 AM

thanks for the reply, if you can't link to the items could you tell me what the name of the rods and adhesive are please?
Mods if this is against the rules, sorry and please delete.

The 'glue' I used is http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A236072&ts=79984&id=31582

With 8mm rods http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100071&ts=80284&id=18004

You'll need to read the instructions carefully and make sure it is all set before installing.

I used a calking gun to apply the cement.

Please note use this at your own risk. It worked well for me and others but I cannot accept liability if your screen falls off ;)

cochese

13-06-2006, 8:54 AM

thanks for that. stupid question but how do you screw the rods into the wall in the first place?

don't worry, i won't come looking for you if it goes wrong :grin:

SillySausage

13-06-2006, 10:20 AM

thanks for that. stupid question but how do you screw the rods into the wall in the first place?

don't worry, i won't come looking for you if it goes wrong :grin:
You don't. You drill the hole to the right size, clean it out very well, fill it 50% with the cement, insert rods, leave to go hard the fasten the back plate on.

You could use grip fill to fill the air gap between blocks and the backplate, but I found that the plate itself was flat and solid enough not to be pulled out of shape by tightening the nuts up.

tbh it doesn't need Arnie tightened nuts. As long as it is secure and held it will be ok.

scrapbook

13-06-2006, 10:32 AM

This appears to be as good a way as I have seen recently...

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309590&highlight=plasterboard

Might be worth a PM to the fella to make sure it is still hanging!!:grin:

Nic Miller

13-06-2006, 11:36 AM

Just thought I'd mention that I have installed my plasma recently - couple of weeks ago and it is still on the wall (and yes the wall hasn't fallen down yet!!!).

It's all in the planning and making sure you've done your research, and have all the steps carefully worked out - I practiced one bolt in the garage to see what I was letting myself in for! Then went out and bought another 10 nozzles for the resin - as the resin sets in the nozzle within minutes! and another 2 packs of resin - so had 900mls or so and a better gun to get the resin out as ours just wouldn't work the resin is so thick.

I concluded that my wall was thermolite bricks - white powdery things that you could push a screw driver through, so made sure I did the fixing right.

Firstly I drilled 8 x 200mm holes 14mm in diameter - very deep but needed to be sure of things (make sure you don't go too far and into a cavity as your resin will pour into this - or in my case go all the way through into the hall and squirt resin down the wall paper!) - I used a metal drill bit as this is better for thermolite blocks.

I then uses a polyester resin from Screwfix to fill the holes - be very careful as it sets very quickly - minutes so you need to be ready to go and confident with your screw placements.

I then pushed my M8 bolts (8mm diameter) into the holes - firstly I hit them with a hammer in the middle to bend it slightly - this would prevent it coming loose when putting the nut on tightly - prevents the bolt twisting in the resin.

I did each bolt separately and held it in the middle of the hole until the resin set. Repeated for each hole.

Let resin dry for 48hours to be sure!

Holes didn't totally line up with bracket -odd mm out - never tried to get them exact. Used a circular file to enlarge holes so bracket slotted on and rested on each and every bolt.

Put two nuts on each bolt, made sure very tight.

Did a few chin ups on bracket - rock solid.

Hung plasma - about the third the weight of me !

HTH

Nic

cochese

13-06-2006, 12:03 PM

leave to go hard the fasten the back plate on.

i assume you mean the plasma bracket back plate?

cochese

13-06-2006, 12:23 PM

thanks guys for the useful info.

i think i'll take nic's lead and give it a go in the garage first.

i'll take a few pics if people are interested.

mucca_D

13-06-2006, 10:26 PM

This is what I did.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194328&page=1&pp=15

Yes it was atad over kill but it still up and all is fine

lynnzal

14-06-2006, 11:17 AM

Nice set up there mucca, but I would advise all would be diy'ers to never run cables diagonally as it makes it very difficult to know where cable runs are if you need to drill through the wall at a future date. The accepted method is vertically or horizontally.

sameerabedi

15-06-2006, 11:56 PM

.

I concluded that my wall was thermolite bricks - white powdery things that you could push a screw driver through, so made sure I did the fixing right.

I need to fit my 27" LCD to the wall in my converted garage bedroom. I've discovered by drilling the wall that I have plasterboard, followed by insulation and then thermalite blocks.
Any ideas how to go about fixing a mounting bracket onto with this arrangement.
Could anyone recommend what screws to use to make sure the bracket is secure
Thanks in advance
Sameer