Philips plasma on the blink...

[High_Pressure]

Hi,

My 18 month old Philips plasma has decided to stop working. I have a 37FD9944/01S that has a seperate tuner box. When you turn on the display the LED goes green for a few seconds then switches to a continuosly rapid flashing red with no picture. I figured it must be the display as I connected my xbox 360 straight in and it still did the same thing.

I contacted Philips who could not help without sending the unit away to be inspected (at my own cost). I then contacted the retailer, Discount Electronics UK, who couldn't have been more unhelpful.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could have happened or any links to some technical advice on Philips plasma (I've already checked Philips.com)

Cheers, H_P.

[the_trickeys]

did you ever get an answer to this ????? i am now having the same problem with mine...... I thought my little girl had done summit, but it looks to be a fault?????

please help.. desparate without my tv.

thanks

[davidgarty]

hi there dont want to upset you but this happened to my hyundi plasma and it was the power point that was the issue and they fixed it then switched it on and it made another part go wrong this kept on happening and then 4 months down the line it was un repairable the guy told me with these big tvs once they go wrong its bout impossible to fix them as there packed with so much technoligy and it was only ten months old . well and for the hyundi warrenty thats a joke there based in koria so no chance of them honoring there warenty so ended up buying a new sammy hope yours is diffrent . good luck davie

[the_trickeys]

thanks for the reply davie...

I've got to keep +ve though so still holding out for solution

Did you say got another one.. if so what would you recommend at 37-40", should i get plasma of tft or are they the same???

thanks

the trickeys

[cdb]

Did you ever get your TVs fixed (what was it/how much) as I now have the same problem on my 27month old Philips plasma.
Funny old thing, out of the hundreds of extended warrentys I've bought over the year and not used, this is about the one item I never bought one for.:rolleyes:

[Barbusa]

I have a 42PF9964, which I bought in 2003, with the same problem and, after a lot of investigation work I identified what causes it!

I sent an email to Philips pointing out the apparent solution, explaining that whilst not expecting them to repair the unit, I would like some help in finding a supplier of the capacitors that I need in order for me to arrange a repair at a reasonable price.

Their service agents quote the cost of repairs at £400 and then will only guarantee the repair for three months!

.................................................. ....

This is the reply I received today from Philips:-

Thank you for your recent e-mail.

Please accept our apologies for the difficulties you are experiencing with your model 42PF9964.

I'm sure you will understand that without a physical examination of your unit, we are not in a position to comment specifically.

As it would appear that your equipment is not currently covered by warranty, we would suggest that you contact our third party service provider Anovo who would be pleased to attend to your unit on a chargeable basis.

Anovo can be contacted on ..........

Should you require any further information please contact our Customer Care Centre (details below) quoting customer reference number xxxxxxxx.

.................................................. ..

This "Non-existent Customer Service" is, almost, unbelievable in this age of huge competition from companies in this particular home entertainment field!

Unfortunately, I am old enough to remember when Philips had a respected name and that alone was enough to choose them over other manufacturers!

Sadly, judging by my own and a huge number of other disappointed Philips customers that I have actually spoken to, exchanged emails with, or posted on various forums, this is not the case any more.

I will go out of my way never to purchase another Philips product and to prove this I have just purchased a Samsung PS42Q97!

I just hope their after sales customer service is better but, after all, how can it be any worse?

However, when I purchased the 42PF9964, I was never offered any form of extended warranty option. With my experiences I have opted for a 5 year extended warranty with the Samsung for an extra £219.00 and I would strongly advise anyone buying a plasma/lcd tv to do likewise!

.................................................. ......................

The main components that wear out are the capacitors which, with a minimum amount of electronics knowledge and a suitable soldering iron (you need one with a tiny point, preferably a butane gas powered one) and a powerful magnifying glass. This must be self supporting or one that hangs from a neck cord.

The capacitors and any other parts you need can be purchased very, very cheaply from rswww.com and they offer a free delivery service or, for an extra fee, a next day service!

When you remove the back panel from the TV, you will see a few circuit boards and you need to locate the one for the power supply.

On mine it is really obvious as it is situated at the top just left of middle. They all have numbers printed on the circuit board. Mine are 2662 (25V 1000 uF) 2663 and 2664 (both 50V 100uF)
The ones originally fitted are '85 deg C' but it is best to replace them with ones that are '105 deg C' because they will last longer.

These '85 deg C caps' normally have a guaranteed life of of 1000 hours, whereas the '105 deg C' ones have a guaranteed life of 2000 hours!

This being the case, when Philips build the sets they know that they will probably break down after a minimum of 1000 hours of use. If we suppose that the caps last for twice their minimum life span (2000 hours) and the TV is switched on for an average of 5 hours per day over the year one, ore more, of them will probably fail in the second quarter of the second year.

With this knowledge, for high cost items such as this, you would always be wise to take out an extended warranty and Philips, or any other manufacturer, should be obliged to include an information card warning consumers of this fact!

The Aluminium Electrolytic - Radial capacitors in question are, usually, 2 x 100uF. The voltage, I believe, depends on the screen size. My 42" screen requires 50V whereas the 32" version uses 25V caps.

There is also a larger 1000uF capacitor, of a similar type, that will be sighted close to the other two. This seems to be 25V, whatever the screen size!

The only thing you must remember when replacing these caps is that the longer leg on the capacitor is 'Positive' and the shorter one is 'Negative' and you must ensure that you do not damage the circuit track!

If you are careful and have a steady hand it is quite an easy job but if you are not too sure, you will probably be able to find a local repairer that is able do the job.

However, you have to beware of the Companies that offer a service where they come and collect the tv for a set fee, usually just under £100! They then work out the cost of the repairs and, if you give them the go ahead, they deduct the amount paid from the overall repair cost.

I have looked into many of these and, even if you agree to the repair estimate, usually in the region of £300, they never seem willing to guarantee the repair for longer than three months, six months at the very most!

When you consider that these components cost a matter of pence you can see the value of trying to repair it yourself.

[MAW]

LOL! I just hope their after sales customer service is better but, after all, how can it be any worse?

Just wait and see! You have picked the worst AV company in creation.

[norfbech]

Our last TV (CRT) was a Philips and pretty much the same thing happened.
I think we had it around 2 years before it started to slowly give up the ghost - it began turning itself on and off which became progressively worse over the last year (we had it around 4 years in total). It also turned green/blue on occasion. We were quoted a ridiculous fee for a fix and in the end we gave it away on a local freecycle site and we purchased a fine PX70.
I have a 15 year oldish Sony Trinitron portable in the kitchen which works as good today as when I first purchased it...4 blinkin years for a modern telly...hope this plasma is more durable...

[[davey]]

Sorry to dredge up an old topic.. I've got a similar problem with a 32" Philips Plasma.. When powering up one of the blue relays on the PSU board clicks constantly then the power light flashes red..

I've just bought the 3 CAP's as mentioned above and I am going to give it a go, but I thought I should ask has anyone else had the "clicking" along with the flashing red light?

Thanks.

[PlasmaManiac]

Hi - Its usually down to the power supply in most cases, but PLEASE BE CAREFUL.

DO NOT work on anything left plugged into the mains, also, remember that the larger capacitors on the Power Supply board can retain a large charge for a long time even when left unplugged for days.

[[davey]]

Replaced the cap's and its still dead :( :thumbsdow

[[davey]]

ITS ALIVE!

I took the board out and checked all the solder joins, etc. then replaced it.. powered it back up and it was still clicking, but with no red light this time.. I thought I'd let it click away and see what happens.. The clicks got slower and viola she powered up :clap:

http://www.dohc.co.uk/temp/ebay/philips_plasma/mce_guide.jpg

[[davey]]

Bah, knew it was too good to be true!

I've conquered the flashing red light so its not completely dead now, but the TV still takes about a minute to come on from cold, must be a faulty Mosfet or something along those lines..

This video was filmed thismorning before I left for work, the unit was completely cold (i.e. it had been off for several hours). When turned on the power supply clicks on and off for a while then the clicking slows and it comes into life.. Then once its warm if I turn it off and on again its fine!

http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o113/daveylc/Temp/?action=view&current=09102007005.flv

Strange ness :suicide:

[pixie]

Davey,

Was the replacement of the capacitors easy to do if you follow Barbusa's instructions? Don't suppose you have any photos showing which ones you replaced?

Our 32pf9964 has just started to have the switch on / clicking / red light problem. As it hasn't completely died we haven't taken the back off it yet to have a look.

Can't really complain too much, as we've had it just over 5 years and it's seen a lot of use (although it's 1 month outside of John Lewis' 5 year guarantee, which is very frustrating!).

Any advice you could give me would be much appreciated! :)

Pixie

[[davey]]

Its really easy, when you take the back off the board is smack bang infront of you, there are loads of connectors to remove on the bottom and side, but after that remove the screws and it comes straight out.. If you hold the board in your hands with the row of connectors along the bottom the cap's are on the very TOP LEFT of the board almost in a row :smashin:

[pixie]

Nice one Davey - thanks for the quick reply and info!

Looks like we'll definitely be trying this out, it refused to switch on this morning... off now to order the capacitors, hope you manage to get the 'warming up' issue sorted too!

Pixie

[camorra]

70% of all failures in plasma & lcds are PSU related :eek:

however it is not just simply replacing the capacitors that solves the fault :cool: Dry Joints are still most common especially with RoHs boards, and even fuse resistors don't survive the heat and blow even before their MTBF factor :( The same with capacitors :god:

as suggested it is wise to replace caps with higher temp coefficient value, as well fuse resistors be replaced with higher wattage value, given that they fit well in the board :rolleyes:

hope this helps :hiya:

[[davey]]

Hi Camorra, I dont suppose you have any ideas what might be causing the cold start problems on my Philips? If I dont give up and sell it to someone who can be bothered to fix it my next step will be to heat up each mosfet individually from cold with a heat gun to see if it helps, tedious task :thumbsdow

[camorra]

it is definitely a dry joint :rolleyes: a tech would follow signal/voltages and find it after some fiddling ;) but if you're not a techie your best bet would be to take the psu out and try to find out the points with a weak solder joint :grin: then heat those up with a good soldering iron :smashin:

hope this helps :hiya:

[[davey]]

You really think it will be a weak join, like i said it does actually work, it just takes 45 seconds to turn on the first time you power it up :)

[MAW]

Camorra has a track history of being right about this kind of stuff, it sounds plausible enough to me.

[[davey]]

I'm tempted to go have another look, its such a ball ache to get the board out though lol! and ive got it listed on ebay now for spares/repair. :grin: :grin:

[camorra]

in a dry joint a leg of a component loses contact from the solder :( then when the tracks/component/parts heat up the solder expands that little bit to make contact on the culprit component :eek: this until the expansion of the solder is not enough to make contact since the solder walls have been widened every time this thing happens :rotfl: Sometimes it could also lead to subsequent bigger faults and other components :cool: However Plasma PSUs are quite a complex electronic device, and it is very difficult that a series of components blow up :rolleyes: On the other hand it is more difficult to repair than other electronic PSUs :god:

tell us how it goes :hiya:

[[davey]]

Been over every single joint that looks suspect and it runs exactly the same :( one of the power transistors near the 3 caps I replaced looks a bit sorry for its self, but if that was dead i'd expect the tv to be totally dead!

[camorra]

try under a good lens with white light.....check all joints well :cool:

[[davey]]

Your not the only person to tell me its a dry joint a guy I work with said the same thing and he said I should pour meths on it to show up the bad joints..

[camorra]

if you continue using it as it is it won't switch on at all (after some days/weeks) or take more time gradually until doesn't switch on at all.... :cool:

however, it can be easier to identify the fault :grin:

[Mimo G]

Just discovered this amazing forum, been tearing my hair out (what's left !) about this same problem with my Philips FTR9955/12 TV Receiver and 42FD9945/01.
Same fault: turn the monitor on LED goes green, turn on the receiver, and the monitor clicks and the LED flashes red.
Just taken the back off, but the circuit ref numbers don't match up with the previous information in other reply's.

Any further help or info on the ref numbers or location on the power board would be really helpful.

The item was purchased 3 years 7 months ago.

On another note until I fix my plasma, I now have to watch terestial television on a 20 year old Philips 'Discoverer' 14GR1220 'space helmet', still works a treat !

Many Thanks

[[davey]]

Should be the same board, the one I have been looking at was from the same model range, I've just sold the exact same receiver box on eBay :thumbsup:

Pull the board in the middle and take a look at the top right of it.. (holding it with the connectors at the bottom) there should be 3 caps almost in a row..

[pixie]

Hi Mimo,

We currently have our Philips apart in preparation to replace the capacitors, so here's how ours looks...

http://www.turboslug.myby.co.uk/extranet/tv/9964_circuits.jpg

This is from our 32pf9964 (consisting of 32FD9944 flat panel with FTR9964 e-box). We've taken the board out so it's just leaning up against the back of the set at the moment, below where it was taken from.

The close up section shows the capacitors 2662, 2664 and 2663 (from left to right).

I guess as the model numbers of your set are different, there may be differences in the circuitry?

Anyway, hope this helps track them down! :)
Pixie

[[davey]]

Looks like the right caps.. is that an LCD version? I've got the 32" LCD too as well as the plasma and it is slightly different inside.

[lazarus]

Heres my 2 pence worth...

I had a Philips 42pf7520d that i managed to break - took it in for repair at my local philips service centre and they couldnt fix it!

They said it was most likely the power supply that had 'gone' but they couldnt source another one (from either philips or from another set). Cost me a £60 deposit just to get them to look at it and tell me that!

Ive claimed on the house insurance and now have a 42" panny px70.

[camorra]

Isn't it according to EU law that manufacturers should be able to supply parts for at least 6 years after a model has been out for sale?? :eek:

It is astonishing that they don't have any PSUs!!!!:mad: The most part that is likely to fail in a TV :suicide:

[pixie]

This might seem like a slightly bizarre question, but did anyone have a problem melting the solder to remove the capacitors?

I've bought a soldering iron... http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/searchBrowseAction.do?D=weller%202015&Nr=AND%28avl%3auk%2csearchDiscon_uk%3aN%29&Ntk=I18NAll&Nty=1&Ntt=weller%202015&Dx=mode%20matchpartial&Ntx=mode%20matchpartial&N=0&name=SiteStandard&forwardingPage=line&R=2328596&callingPage=/jsp/search/search.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@0784618956.1193316731@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccciaddmflhmfmfcefeceeldgondhgi.0&cacheID=uknetscape

...and I'm trying out my soldering technique on an old graphics card, just to see how easy it is to remove things, but the iron doesn't seem to melt the solder. Is this soldering iron just wrong for the job??

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I'm new to this sort of stuff!
Pixie

[[davey]]

You have got it plugged in yeah? :grin:

Seriously though high silver content solder is hard to melt, the graphics card might be soldered with that.

[pixie]

Yeah... checked for the obvious! :eek: :grin:

I guess it must be silver solder then - it takes absolutely ages to melt. I can only hope that Philips have used crappy solder to go with their crappy capacitors... :devil:

Getting a little better with practice, think it's just newbie nerves!

Thanks Davey!
Pixie

[pixie]

It lives!!!! :grin:

Thanks to Barbusa for the original instructions, and Davey for answering my questions and the moral support!! :thumbsup:

Can't believe the screen actually works again, turned it on and got a picture straight away.

Had a bit of a mooch on Google, and found out that filing down the tip of the soldering iron can help to conduct the heat better - did this and the iron was MUCH better and melted the solder a lot more easily!

Thanks again to everyone for their help - off now to watch TV!
Pixie

[jacknetuk]

Im having a similar issue to you, ive took the back off the TV (42PF9945/12) but i cant find the capictors im supposed to replace, ive attached some photos can you please tell me which i need to replace

[[davey]]

whats under the black cover on the centeral board?

[camorra]

;5728448']whats under the black cover on the centeral board?

One would find the Logic and AV boards down there :grin:

Seems like a Samsung panel/Sustain and Power Supply boards to me :thumbsdow

Can you explain your problem in a little more detail?? :confused:

[jacknetuk]

When i try to switch the TV on the power light stays on red and it would click once as if it was switching on then the red light goes off then it does all the above again and again. Checked fuses and stuff on the board

[camorra]

It can be a lot of things ;)

Firstly I would take out the board, check WELL for any visible burnt component, then checking transistors for shorts :hiya:

[jacknetuk]

Ive taken the back off the TV but how do i check a transitor and a capacitor ive got a multimeter but which is the best way to check them and what should i look for, theres no obvious burning on the board and no obvious loose joints. Ive attached some photos of the board taken out of the TV.

Thanks
Jack

[pixie]

Hi Jack,

The problem does sound the same, but from looking at the boards the layouts are completely different to mine.

I have no idea how you'd go about tracking the problem down, and only managed to fix ours thanks to the advice here, but it sounds like Cammora might be able to help with this?!

When looking for info to find the problem with ours, it looks like Barbusa found the info here... http://www.reviewcentre.com/review_comments238288.html

Not sure if there's any extra info here that would help?

Pixie

[jacknetuk]

Was yours a LCD or a plasma because this is a plasma so will probably be a bit different

Jack

[pixie]

Was yours a LCD or a plasma because this is a plasma so will probably be a bit different

Jack

It's a Philips 32pf9964, consisting of 32FD9944 plasma panel with FTR9964 e-box. I guess it's the different model number of yours making the difference within the layout as Barbusa's instructions were for the same model as mine but bigger screen...

Pixie

[jacknetuk]

Yer mines a 42PF9945 (could be wrong im guessing from memory)

[Mimo G]

My power supply panel looks like this too, it is fitted to a Philips 42FD9945/01 42" plasma panel, although its a Samsung PDP.
At last !
This is the first indication of a similar panel. Any clues as to where 'These dodgy capacitors' are located on this type of board.
Here's hoping this brings me closer to resolving the, what now is seeming to be 'famous flashing red LED' plasma problem.

Mimo G

[periyamandai]

Amazing that this problem with the Philips 42FD9945/01 occured to all of us this month.
I too am waiting for the solution to the problem (with pictures, please).



Periyamandai

[jacknetuk]

My power supply panel looks like this too, it is fitted to a Philips 42FD9945/01 42" plasma panel, although its a Samsung PDP.
At last !
This is the first indication of a similar panel. Any clues as to where 'These dodgy capacitors' are located on this type of board.
Here's hoping this brings me closer to resolving the, what now is seeming to be 'famous flashing red LED' plasma problem.

Mimo G

Mines similar except the model is 42FD9945/12 hopefully we'll find a solution :)

[jacknetuk]

Ive managed to fix my Phillips Plasma ive attached a photo of the capaictor that i replaced to fix. The it is called a Radial Wound resistor which is avalible for £4.00 online

[Polynesia]

Great Forum! Isolated in the South Pacific the local Philips store could not repair my 42FD9944/01S ... I tried all of the suggestions but to no avail. Replaced the caps, checked all solder joints, and diodes and transistors with a mutil-meter but no luck. Any further help will be appreciated. For those that it may help, here are 2 photos of my 42FD9944/01S, note that the cap numbers are the same as suggested for another model. Hope it helps someone.

Photos here:
http://www.hotelkaveka.com/FD9944.jpg
http://www.hotelkaveka.com/9944CU.jpg

Thanks for all of the great ideas, glad they worked for some.

[ap shift]

Hi from yet another victim of this problem.

So far changing the caps has not fixed the problem. I removed the PSU board and a friend who is an electronic designer replaced the caps. The area around the adjacent diodes showed staining due to severe heating. Now I have circuit diagram we can what type of diodes these are and replace them.

has anybody found other problems that cause this fault?

if you want a circuit: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=12034Download all 16 parts, about 2mgs each, and de-rar them. Very comprehensive service manual.

The plasma unit model is Philips 42 9944/01S screen and the vital chassis typr is FM24.

I attach two images from the relevant bit of circuit on page 37 of this manual.

Hope this is useful to any fellow sufferers.

[Polynesia]

Hi from yet another victim of this problem.

So far changing the caps has not fixed the problem. I removed the PSU board and a friend who is an electronic designer replaced the caps. The area around the adjacent diodes showed staining due to severe heating. Now I have circuit diagram we can what type of diodes these are and replace them.

has anybody found other problems that cause this fault?

if you want a circuit: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download.php?fileid=12034Download all 16 parts, about 2mgs each, and de-rar them. Very comprehensive service manual.

The plasma unit model is Philips 42 9944/01S screen and the vital chassis typr is FM24.

I attach two images from the relevant bit of circuit on page 37 of this manual.

Hope this is useful to any fellow sufferers.

Thanks ... I'll give it a go and test the diodes again ... the download of the service manual parts was very slow ... if it helps others, here is a link to the complete PDF manual, just un-rar and use.
Link is: http://www.filefactory.com/dlf/f/9b9ad2/b/1/h/917b8144329cf82ce475531a81ffce53/j/1733205911

[ap shift]

Any news from previous recent sufferers ? Haave you made successful repairs to the plasmas?

I'm still waiting for the diodes to be replaced.

[Groundhog]

Hi Guys

A friend asked me have a look at his Philips screen. It was suffering from the 'green light for 10 seconds then flashing red ' disease :eek:

I replaced the 3 caps and it made no difference.

However , somewhere on the web I saw a post from a guy who pointed a hot air dryer in the direction of the big black heatsink and mosfets and as if by magic he said it cured the problem ...albeit temporarily. I must admit I thought the chance of it working on mine was slim to negligible. Anyhow , in desperation ,I tried and it worked. The screen booted up 1st time. Ran for a couple of hours with no problem. Of course after I turned it off and it cooled . The old problem came back , Did the hair dryer trick again and it again started up fine.

Short of telling my mate to buy himself a hair dryer :) , does anyone know what a more permanent fix might be :lease:

cheers

[lucashoei]

my work mate gave me this plasma as faulty wit no remote control nor leeds. problem is with power board, I think:confused: when pluged in to mains stand by come on red. I bought universal remote control and when I start to search for the signal by remote tv came on adn started to work but only for 10 seconds. green light came on then high voltake started but then stopped, sounded exactly the same when you swith off telly. only one thing is funny because when high voltake stopped green light remain on.
when unpluged and plued in just stay on red. 42FD9944/01S
these two pics look the same like mine.

[martin82]

Just like to thank Jacknetuk for his advice. I replaced the said resistors [ not capacitors] they were 37pence in Maplin. One was fine the other open circuit, I replaced both with a slightly higher wattage rating. Switched on and alls well that ends well. I won't ever buy another Phillips product due to their complete lack of help whilst trying to solve the matter.
Heres the link [Jacknetuk] and those problematic resisters....

http://www.avforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=65155&d=1193941144

[jacknetuk]

Glad it worked for you :) , didnt know if it was a resistor or a capacitor (im only 13 lol)

[Mimo G]

Glad it worked for you :) , didnt know if it was a resistor or a capacitor (im only 13 lol)
Another many many thanks to JACKNETUK, I also have fixed my plasma, with the same fault, it looks like these resistors are coil feeds for the two relays below them (Blue boxes).
An alternative to MARTIN82's Maplin fix is Farnell Components do a direct replacement.
The Item is a 5 Watt ceramic radial resistor 6R8 Ohms, The part number is 987-578, and wait for it, it costs £0.19 !!!
HUGE THANKS to all the contributors to this thread, HUGE THUMBS down to Philips for what can only be described as a known design fault, and STILL bury their head in the sand in the hope it will go away !

PS:
The give away to this particular fault occuring, shows up now that it has been fixed:
When switching on the screen section panel only, you should hear TWO relays 'clicking' one after the other. When it was faulty, only ONE relay clicked.
(hence one of the resistors had packed in), makes sense eh!

[philli]

Just to say thanks to Mimo and JackNetUk too. I had the same problem with mine and replaced the resistor and now it works. Brilliant chaps!

[KID_A]

I have the exact same problem with my phillips 42FD9945/12 with the panel showing a red light and only one relay is clicking.

Anyways i don't have skills or tools on how to open the tv up and solder the new resistor.

How much do you think it would cost to get a technician to put in the new part, plus callout etc.

[ccarcher]

I have exactly the same problem with my Philips 42PF9964 plasma which is now over 4 years old although the fault started after about 2 years

I just continually cycle the power at the mains until it kicks into life (eventually/normally 3 attempts) but this is just so frustrating and annoying

I did contact Philips about a repair 2 years ago and got the same standard letter and reference to anovo or whathever they are called

I decided not to go down that route, as amazingly in the week they were due to collect the screen to take away for repair, it began to behave itself

so I cancelled the call as I did not want to be without the screen, and it worked fine for around 3 months

but I am fed up with the problem, and may well attempt this self repair option, or find someone that will carry it out for me at

Especially as I have to take the offending item down to decorate the room, after all if the fix dont work I could always have accidently dropped it for insurance purposes

Out of interest I have often wondered this

Could the problem be related to the fact that i have my screen, and all av devices connected to one of those distribution plugs / power breakers which are design to prevent damage in case of a power spike etc

as that guarantees device protection for life I was wondering if I maybe could claim for the repairs from them as its power related

[bianconeri]

Hi all,

Have a 32pf9964 with all the symptoms previously posted on here. When trying to turn the screen on had the green light for around 5/6 seconds then the flashing red light, would eventually turn on after a while, and once on stayed on. It then stopped completely, and recently took heating the top of the screen to come on. Well today it packed up completely, and I've been searching the internet for a solution. To cut a long story short, I found Barbusa's original instructions to replace the 3 capacitors, and Pixie's success story so decided to give it a go. It works !!!!! I changed capacitors 2662, 2663, 2664 and it fired up first time!

Thanks to all for posting their experiences here!

[tarnold99]

I can't believe this issue is so common! I have four Philips plasmas and my 50" was the first to go. I was busy and uneducated about the issues and ended up just replacing it since the service center (worthless) was suggesting it would cost more to replace it (without looking at it).

Now one of my 32" are gone. Same as everyone else - won't power up!!! I have model 32FD9954/17S

I called Philips and the guy was a moron. He couldn't even find the model in the database - and finally gave me the number of the service center (the only reason I called them).

Well, the service center rings straight to voicemail and the box is full. I sent them an email and it bounced.... errors said for lack of activity the box isn't accepting new messages. How terrible can this group be?

It isn't just Philips, but everyone they surround themselves with.

Looks like I will be playing technician and swapping cap's out. I am very thankful that those who have gone before me have provided such great help. I wish I had this before I trashed a very expensive 50" last year.

Tom

[Dj Appliances]

Hi, I have a philips 42PF7520D/10 the problem i have is from cold the only way to get the tv to come on is to keep pluging and unpluging the plug with a few seconds gap between each attempt, after about 12 trys it manages to stay on. Dose this sound like the fault in the power supply like you guys are getting?

After its running it will stay on for ever without any problem, if i turn it onto stand-by and leave it to cool down then i get the same problem again, Do you think it might just be a dry joint at the moment in the power supply?

Any information would be fantastic :lease:

[cartrader_2007]

Hi

I have a PHILIPS 37FD9944/01s Chassis FM33, and Its has the dreaded flashing red light.

when you first switch the tv on you hear the relays click and the light is green and stays green for 10 seconds (but it does not power up) and then goes red and starts flashing.

I have replaced the 3 Capacitors as they are a common fault with these TV, But they has been no change !!

the stays green for 10 seconds then goes red and starts flashing.

I have Taken the TV to a Repair Shop that Repairs Tv's etc.
and they did the same thing - replace the 3 capacitors but still the tv would not switched on !! They has the Tv for a week and Is was informed that it needed a new Power PCB (board) !!! But they Cannot Locate One anywhere !!!, so the Tv came back unrepaired at a cost of £20.

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on another Board ???

Here is 2 pics of my POWER PCB - one show a ring around the 3 capacitors that have been replaced Twice !!

[c_vils]

Hi
Happy first post.... Just replaced the three caps on a FM 24 AB power supply (as in polynesias post), and all is working now. Thanks for all the help here - it might have ended as scrap otherwise. Picked up the caps at the local repairshop, and he wouldnt even charge me.
From what i have seen on different forums, the service manual and the ebay repair kit, i think that people with the FM33 AA board should replace the ic along with the capacitors. The thermal design of the board doesnt seem to wise to me.
Best of luck to you all.

c_vils

[rayferry]

Hi

I have a PHILIPS 37FD9944/01s Chassis FM33, and Its has the dreaded flashing red light.

when you first switch the tv on you hear the relays click and the light is green and stays green for 10 seconds (but it does not power up) and then goes red and starts flashing.

I have replaced the 3 Capacitors as they are a common fault with these TV, But they has been no change !!

the stays green for 10 seconds then goes red and starts flashing.

I have Taken the TV to a Repair Shop that Repairs Tv's etc.
and they did the same thing - replace the 3 capacitors but still the tv would not switched on !! They has the Tv for a week and Is was informed that it needed a new Power PCB (board) !!! But they Cannot Locate One anywhere !!!, so the Tv came back unrepaired at a cost of £20.

Does anyone know where I can get my hands on another Board ???

Here is 2 pics of my POWER PCB - one show a ring around the 3 capacitors that have been replaced Twice !!

Try replacing these capacitors
C2113 C2230 C2231 C2508 C2510 C2540 C2663 C2664

and SMD electrolytic capacitors C2210 and C2205

Some of the capacitors are not fitted to every PCB.
I hope this helps.

[garafrax]

Thanks to the posts here my Phillips Plasma 42PF9631D/37 is working again!

It had the green light for 5 seconds then red flashing light blinking 7 times issue. It happened all of a sudden. I wole up one morning and it wouldn't turn on.

Read the posts, took it apart and took the power supply to a freind who used to work on circuitry. He spotted a bad capacitor immediately and replaced it with one from a computer power supply he had lying around.

Here's a few pics of my board
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/garafrax/TV%20Repair/HPIM1458.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/garafrax/TV%20Repair/HPIM1456.jpg

If you look carefully in the first pic you can see the bad capacitor. Notice how the top is bowed upwards. The capacitor in question is almost dead center of the picture

[cartrader_2007]

Try replacing these capacitors
C2113 C2230 C2231 C2508 C2510 C2540 C2663 C2664

and SMD electrolytic capacitors C2210 and C2205

Some of the capacitors are not fitted to every PCB.
I hope this helps.

Hi I have found all of the above capacitors on my power pcb 2 of them have been replaced twice, and I have marked the ones that have not been replaced with a red X

I have attached a picture of the board, as the capacitors seemed to be grouped together, I will order new ones and change them to see if it will work,

Have you had the same problem with your power pcb ?

[camplinj]

I have the same problem with my FlatTV and purchased new cables. Now when I switch it on the Monitor works separately from the receiver - they both switch on and off. The monitor switches off after giving the error message "Cannot detect VGA" and the receiver switches on and off. As the screen lights up and shows the TV menu, can I assume that this is not a problem with the caps?

[cartrader_2007]

I have the same problem with my FlatTV and purchased new cables. Now when I switch it on the Monitor works separately from the receiver - they both switch on and off. The monitor switches off after giving the error message "Cannot detect VGA" and the receiver switches on and off. As the screen lights up and shows the TV menu, can I assume that this is not a problem with the caps?

NO your Tv is working fine, It's your Receiver (media Box) that is faulty !!

You can confirm this by pluging you pc monitor cable into the vga socket on the Tv and you should have a perfect picture

Hope this helps

[tobias.s]

Hi Cartrader,

I have EXACTLY the same problem with my Plasma (also a 37fd9944/01s)...relay clacking, 10second green LED, than flashing red.
I ve changed the three capacitors but the same problem is still there.
Have you found a solution other than changing the hole board?

Thanks!

[spurticus]

Hi, guys I have a philips plasma 42pf7320 which works but clicks of into standby after various amounts of time.

its 17 months old and i was just wondering if its worth going down the consumer rights route as a 12 month warranty is pathetic for such an item, also i was not offered an extended warranty as it was an insurance replaement...

any thoughts or similar problems?

[edbaker]

Hi Polynesia,
Firstly thanks for your contribution to the forum.
Secondly, my 42FD9944/01S has a fault - sparkly red dots. Turns out it is the cable that connects the SCAVIO board to the DPD board. It's the video cable with a big ferrite on each end. (low voltage differential signal to plasma display driver - a conductor has a fracture in it. I can fix the display by wiggling the cable - not the connector.)
This cable does not seem to be listed in the manual you VERY helpfully listed in your previous post. (How did you manage to get hold of that?)
I am thinking that maybe the cable is part of the PDP (plasma display driver) provided by Fujitsu / Hitachi. Particularly because it is labelled "Hitachi".
Do you happen to know where I can obtain a replacement?
Or do you have a part number. Or any other ideas?
Thanks again for your help,
Ed.


Thanks ... I'll give it a go and test the diodes again ... the download of the service manual parts was very slow ... if it helps others, here is a link to the complete PDF manual, just un-rar and use.
Link is: http://www.filefactory.com/dlf/f/9b9ad2/b/1/h/917b8144329cf82ce475531a81ffce53/j/1733205911

[Refixel]

The same thing happened to me yesterday afternoon. I have a Philips 42" plasma: model #42PF7220A/37B
.. I think I'm going to try and do what everyone else recommends: replace the caps, etc... The warranty has expired and the authorized repair center wants to charge me more than it would cost to buy a new one.

Anyway, my question to everyone is where can I buy the supplies to fix the television? I live in New York City and really don't want to have to order online and wait for so long. Is there any kind of specialized store I can go to to purchase the supplies? I doubt I'd find everything at the hardware store.

If so, please email me at refixel@gmail.com

Thanks all!
-Alex

[d.wilko]

My 42FD9945/01 has just died. Green led for 5 seconds then flashing red..... It has a samsung power module: S42SD-YD06

Does anyone know the fix with this power module :lease:

piccy of naughty module :mad:

[d.wilko]

what i forgot to say is the two big caps in the 3rd piccy are expanded, what other parts could be faulty ?

[Dialao2]

Hi All.

I have marantz 42'' plasma that has all the internals of a philips FM23. My problems is that when I sitch it on the relays click once, the screen goes on for split second and then I have the red light flashing. I tries replaceing the caps but no luck. It cant be the resitor as both relays are clicking, and the diodes work (as far as multimeter testing suggests). I am thinking of two possible reasons. One Either the screen draws too much current and the whole thing switches off (but I disconected the screen and it still does the same) or whatever is regulating the voltage is at fault as I can also hear the fans spining slower. After some multimeter madness the 25V hot supply from the preconditioner goes down to 14V. After bridging things it still stays to 14 volts while initially it starts from about 22V. Any Idea what can that be?

[Dialao2]

If i connect a 20 volt psu refferenced to the hot ground what am I risking?

[Polynesia]

The same thing happened to me yesterday afternoon. I have a Philips 42" plasma: model #42PF7220A/37B
.. I think I'm going to try and do what everyone else recommends: replace the caps, etc... The warranty has expired and the authorized repair center wants to charge me more than it would cost to buy a new one.

Anyway, my question to everyone is where can I buy the supplies to fix the television? I live in New York City and really don't want to have to order online and wait for so long. Is there any kind of specialized store I can go to to purchase the supplies? I doubt I'd find everything at the hardware store.

If so, please email me at refixel@gmail.com

Thanks all!
-Alex
Try this Link Alex (in your "backyard") www.nteinc.com for the resistors mentioned elsewhere in the forum. 800-631-1250

Iaorana from Polynesia

[jacobbarron]

Does anyone have the part numbers of the relays fed by the resistors? I have knackered the ones I have on the board.

[pat01]

I Also have a philips #32fd995417s that was flashing green and clicking. I took others advice and heated it up with the hairdryer and got it to work for a few hours. Today I tried the same trick and it didn't work. Now it lights green for about ten seconds then flashes red indefinatley. There are no visible signs of burnt or swollen components, should I try and replace those three caps everyone mentioned? Please help

[Mimo G]

Try checking the resistor feeds for the switch on relays, does it 'click' twice, or only once.See my previous posts for more details.
Hope you fix it soon !
MIMO

[Andyhqr]

1) Recently discovered this forum and the great advice (thanks to contributors). Hoped it would resolve my problem, but unfortunately not - further help please!
2) I also have a Philips Plasma 42FD9944/01S with the green LED/SINGLE click/flashing red LED problem.
3) Downloaded the Service manual (as per #53). However, my PSU board is most like the FM24, though not quite, with differences in layout. It is exactly as per picture #52.
4) Have replaced the advised three capacitors (2662,3,4) - still ill
5) No obvious scorcing or blown capacitors
6) Tried the hair-dryer trick (as per #56) and it started (obviously not a long term fix)
7) Unable to locate on the PSU the equivalent radial resistor (as per #51), though I have identified the two blue relays (1450 & 1460)

Any further help would be appreciated.

For Jaccobbarron [#83]: The Service manual has the relays (1450 & 1460) as SDT-SS-109DM, Philips part number 4822 280 10382
For Mimo G [#85]: Could you please give more detail about "checking the resistor feeds"

[aberdeenangus]

I have a 42FD9944 with the red-led disease.

This unit is mounted above a gas fire. If I turn the fire on for 20 mins and let the unit get nice & warm, it starts just fine.
The faulty component must be heat sensitive hence the hair dryer trick. Also, it may explain why trying to start it 12 times works, by warming the power board!
I am old enough to remember when you had to let valve sets "warm up" before the picture came on. Not too much has changed has it.
Like the rest of you, I will NEVER be buying another Philips product out of principle.
I will however, always buy future TV's from John Lewis because of the free 5 year warranty.
I'm away now to try changing the caps & resistors as identified in previous posts.
Keep up the good work - excellent forum.

Oh, just on the off-chance. How many of you that have the same problem may have exposed your TV to excess heat by mounting it above a fire.
I know you're not supposed to, but everyone does !
Just wondered if we may have cooked a component and now need to re-heat it (as it were) to get it to work....? Just a thought.

[pat01]

I have recently aquired another exact tv as I mentioned. Surprisingly it has the same problem. I have replaced the three capacitors as mentioned and nothing. So I dropped one of them off at a repair shop but before I did I marked most every component on the power board. While I'm waiting for his reply I've found a repair kit on e-bay for $43.00. The seller almost gaurantees this kit consisting of 10 caps and one integrated circuit. It works on most models. I trust this kit will work because I've read in other forums the IC is the main component that has been replaced that fixes this problem. I'm going to look through my parts for this IC. I'll let everyone know what happens between these 2 plasmas. Thanks for the responses.

[aberdeenangus]

In answer to my own question (2 posts ago). I started re-reading this thread and lo, there was my answer. Of course, capacitors are temp sensitive.

Right i'm orf to swap out a few electrolytics. Wish me luck.

By the way, popped into Maplin to pick up a new multimeter wi' capacitance setting.....noticed they have some meters on special offer.
Anyway long story, short. Paid £30 quid. Took it home and am mightily impressed. Has all the usual scales but includes a temperature probe and has USB out, to a nifty little application that turns the thing into a data capture device. All for £30.
And nope, i'm nothing to do with Maplin. Just thought praise where it's due !!

[Mimo G]

The reistors that feed the relays are white matt 5 Watt ceramic type 6.8 Ohms. The resistors can be checked unpowered as with most resitor failures they go open citcuit when faulty. This results in no voltage coil feed to power the relay.

[pat01]

I just heard back from the repair shop and bad news. The guy said that the board is shot and about $430.00 for a new power board. Funny thing is is that he said the board that I replaced the 3 caps on(the one all the pics are posted of) isn't the power board! I have yet to speak to him personally when I pick the tv up. Sounds fishy if you ask me. Oh, and the repair kit for all these models has now dissapeared from ebay.
Be back soon.:mad:

[billyjiahaogao]

The reistors that feed the relays are white matt 5 Watt ceramic type 6.8 Ohms. The resistors can be checked unpowered as with most resitor failures they go open citcuit when faulty. This results in no voltage coil feed to power the relay.

Hi there,

I've read all your posts from a few pages back - I have a similar problem, 42PF9955 Phillips. The screen just went blank a couple of days ago and now I hear 2 clicks when I power it on - although I have to wait a period of time before the clicks occur again.

Took the back off and noticed 2 LED's, numbered LED 8001 and 8002. I suspect these have something to do with the resistors as they are right below the blue boxes and switch off with the clicks.

I was just wondering, I want to check if it is the resistors that are broken, I have a multimeter - but no idea on how to use it :rolleyes: What setting do I use to check the circuit is broken (with no power), e.g. Amps, Ohms - I'm quite useless when it comes to this :grin:

Also, I looked up the components and I got this webpage
http://uk.farnell.com/987578/passives/product.us0?sku=tyco-electronics-sqm5-6r8&_requestid=72263
Their 38pence now, just wondering if they are correct and have gone up in price or I'm being stupid and have the entirely wrong resistor :)

Thanks for any help!!

Billy

[choddo2006]

For most cases, switch it to ohms, it'll start reading very high or inifinity or something then you connect across the resistor and see if it drops to the rated resistance (in which case it's not faulty).

Given you said you're useless... do make sure it's not connected to a live AC supply when you do this ;)

[MOI64]

Just found this forum. First of all i am happy after months to understand that I am not the only one who has this problem with Philips.

My story ; The on/off started 2 years ago on my 52 inch philips. Because i have (i thought) some good contacts insite philips. (the one who is responsible for flatscreens in belgium) I received a new one, this one worked also just for a few months and started to have the problem again. I replaced the receiver same problem. Bought new cables same problem.

Because i live in spain in a old house and did not trust the power in this house i give up. I had this big flatscreen on the table and in front my 10 years old sony trinitron.

Last month I moved to a complete new house, where it looked that it worked. Happy me 2 flatscreens ready to use. But on my first day that i really wanted to watch my flatscreen, same problem started again.

I even bought a power stabilisator but no results. My living room is now full with 2 flatscreens, PC for direct contact with the screen (so i dont use the seperate box) power stabilisator, laptop with digital tv for just in case, (but there is no football broadcasted) and a family that runs to the neighbours if football is on and the screen starts to have problems.

Now it is time to switch some parts what i read in previous posts. Wish me luck but i have the feeling that in few days there will be 2 flatscreens on the road with a note please take me and have luck.

But great info here, but what would be the first part to change ? with the biggest change that this finally fix the philips problem.

Moi
Marbella

[jwball]

on a side issue, I have the 37" version of this screen and until yesterday had it wall mounted. I am moving to a new house and wish to use the tv on its stand but have misplaced the screws which hold the tv to the verticals on the stand. Does anyone know the size I should use and where to get them from? Thanks

[jwball]

Bump

Can anyone help please?

[Brynhyfryd]

Right! I've got a 9965 with the green light/three clicks/flashing red light problem. I've bought the capacitors from Maplin. I'll get the soldering iron out this weekend. Wish me luck!

[JulieBell]

Right! I've got a 9965 with the green light/three clicks/flashing red light problem. I've bought the capacitors from Maplin. I'll get the soldering iron out this weekend. Wish me luck!

You're very brave:grin:
Seriously though, best of luck, I'm sure it will be fine:smashin:

[Brynhyfryd]

OK, I’ve replaced 2662 (25V 1000 uF) 2663 and 2664 (both 50V 100uF) and now I get a continuous red LED on the front and no clicks. Does any one have any ideas please? Any help would be appreciated!

Update. Two hours later. I rebooted the receiver box and now I'm back to the green light/three clicks/flashing red light problem. Time to look at changing some resisteors I suppose!

[mmmmmrob]

Thanks to Barbusa for the info, I wrote things up a bit with photos on my blog:

http://www.dynamicorange.com/blog/archives/other-technical/fixing_a_plasma.html

:-)

[Brynhyfryd]

Well after my failure I took to the local repair shop and they reckon £200 to replace failed thyristors and several low capacitors. I feel reluctant to spend that much (what's next to go?). Is there much of a market for these as "faulty for repair?".
And congrats to mmmmmrob and all the others for succeeding where I failed!

[googoo73]

hi anyone know where i can get a replacement power board or a complete unit with a smashed screen from .i drilled a big hole in my power board trying to get out a cross threaded screw that the head got mashed up .:mad::oops:

[jaguar04p]

My Phillips 32FD9954 was working good until just last week. it started doing this on/off cycles three or four times then turned on. I thought may be it is a power problem so i left it unplugged overnight. Next day i plugged in the cable and did not get the red stand by light. I read the this topic and went to local repair shop and got the three cap. changed. I put it together and plugged in the cable but red stand by light is still not on and tv is not coming on. Local repair shop guy checked all the caps. and fuses on the power board for me and said everything is good. Any help will be appreciated.

Sorry for reviving old topic but please help
Thanks in advance

[y2000hei]

Thanks God you lead me to this forum

Here is my story:
My 6-yr old 32FD9944 plasma TV was suffering the clicking problem since December 2007. Accidentally, I found blowing hot air to the components inside through the vents could help to tackle the problem though I needed longer and longer time to heat up the panel. Last week, when I heated up the panel and the green light on, but the light turned to red and the panel was idle after about 10 times of green light blinking. I tried many times again but in vain. Finally, I gave it up and connected all the video stuff to my old 15-inch LCD monitor as a temporary measure.

I searched the Internet for “repair plasma TV” or something like that many times but no possible solution could be found. Few days before, I searched “repair 32FD9954” (because I thought it is 9954 but it is 9944 in fact) in Yahoo. I found this forum and noticed that many people have the some problem. Some people luckily fixed their problem by replacing the 3 capacitors. Thanks Barbusa for his original suggestion and mmmmmrob’s detailed description/procedures in his blog. I replaced the 3 capacitors last night. Magically, my plasma TV was recovered and alive! However, it still needs to click few times before it can start up.

I am looking forward to fix the clicking problem. I have checked visually but there are no signs. Mimo G suggested to replace the 5W 6R8 resistor but I could locate the item on the PCB. Mimo G’s further advice is much appreciated. On the other hand, I reckon that the clicking problem may be due to the faulty relay(s). Any other view?

[flashcode]

OK guys, try this out.

The Philips plasma TVs have 2 relays to switch the power on. Each relay trips a second after the other.
The initial power to trip the relays comes from a standby circuit. This circuit, as the TV gets older, is not able to deliever enough power to close the 9V relays (they need a minimum of 6.75V to close, according to specs, but they might need more as they get older too).
Solution:
Check the voltage coming out of a half wave rectifier [transformer TR5500, diode D6504 (RG25), capacitor C2508 (4,7u)]; it should be the same you get in one side of both relays. Increase the voltage to exceed those 6.75V. How? Increase that 4,7u capacitor to, say, 10u.
I hope it solves your problem. Good luck!

[Brynhyfryd]

I've given up with mine (see above). If anybody wants a go themselves have a look on eBay.
Rod

[emmab]

HI to everyone:hiya:, i am new to this site but i have been checking it out for about a week.

i am a girl ;) and i know absolutley nothing about electric components or anything to do with tvs. I also do not know how to start a new thread or is it okay to hi jack this one???:) (i like using the smiles)!

However, my phillips plasma 42pf9945 42" stoped working approx 2 weeks ago. The same problems clicking etc... We removed it from the wall after reading this forum and thought we would have a look! Well i took down some numbers off of the white rectangle boxes which i think is capacitors? and took the numbers to Maplins. They never had a clue what i was talking about and said the numbers meant nothing.

So now a week later i have gone on to the site rswww.com which i found on this site and ordered some capacitors 50v 100uf and 25v 1000 uf. I took the numbers from Barbusa thread on 05 06 2007. Which i have just noticed is a year old!:oops: I could not buy them separately only in bulk of 25 each so it came to £20 with delivery.

Have i ordered the correct ones???? Someone :lease: advise. Thank you. Also i am sneaking this in during my work hours as boss is not in yet so a reply soon will appreciated.:grin:

[Brynhyfryd]

Emmab "Aluminium Electrolytic - Radial capacitors 50v 100uf and 25v 1000 uf." should mean something to Maplins, certainly the Cardiff branch could supply me some with no problems - for a few coppers.

Budnshe - yes!

[y2000hei]

OK guys, try this out.

The Philips plasma TVs have 2 relays to switch the power on. Each relay trips a second after the other.
The initial power to trip the relays comes from a standby circuit. This circuit, as the TV gets older, is not able to deliever enough power to close the 9V relays (they need a minimum of 6.75V to close, according to specs, but they might need more as they get older too).
Solution:
Check the voltage coming out of a half wave rectifier [transformer TR5500, diode D6504 (RG25), capacitor C2508 (4,7u)]; it should be the same you get in one side of both relays. Increase the voltage to exceed those 6.75V. How? Increase that 4,7u capacitor to, say, 10u.
I hope it solves your problem. Good luck!

Why it only happens after the unit has been cooled down? If the problem is due to the deteriated relays, would it be better to replace them with new ones?

[emmab]

Thank you, I will return the bulk pack to rsw tom and go to Maplins again with the correct info. I will give you all a update!!!

[budnshe]

Where would be good place to get some capacitors at. Mine that are bad for my phillips is 10V 3300uf . Can i go with a slightly higher Voltage one? Thanks

[ap shift]

I posted back on page 4 on 13 11 2007 but only got my Philips 42 9944/01S fixed recently.

The faulty component was part number 2540, a 100 uf electrolytic capacitor associated with part number 7540, a positive voltage regulator L7805 on the power supply board FM24.

Groundhog posted on 12 12 07 that he had read that someone was getting his screen to start by blowing hot air over the circuit board from a hair dryer. I had noticed that the relays would lock in quicker when the screen had been running and was hot and when cooled down it wouldn’t. (If starting from “off” there was a period of silence until, gradually, a faint clicking of relays would be heard and build up to full clicking – so don’t give up if you get total silence! )

I tried with a hot air gun for paint stripping and found if reasonably close to the area below and left of the blue rectangular relays it would start straight away.


With the help of a friend with electronic design experience we tested all the components around the area by applying a hot soldering iron to them. Apparently transistors and capacitors will withstand temperature of 100C for 1 to 2 secs without damage (I wouldn’t have risked it without advice). Heat a component, switch on, if your lucky it clicks in straight away. Quite a moment!


IMPORTANT. Each heated component has to cool down again before testing the next to avoid confusion.

Replacing components on these boards is tricky. If you are not skilled I suggest you do some tests, identify suspect, and then seek someone with experience to actually fit the components for you. I know, but if you overheat the boards the foil tracks will come away and then you have more problems.

My friends says these aluminium electrolytics are not top quality and if they were a dodgy batch (we’re all suffering with these faults) 5 years may be all they can manage.


I hope this helps. It certainly was a relief to get my screen working reliably again. I paid £3700 for it 5½ years ago. I looked at current plasmas around £1K and the Viera looked pretty good but the picture is very processed compared to my old Phillips. (I feed it with SKY HD and HD discs converting HDMI to VGA using a Vision FC4 converter from Lektropacks .

http://www.lektropacks.com/view_products.php?department=2&sub1=65&show=65

Even 576p looks great. I have a projector as well).

Good luck. Questions? Try me, I can alway ask my friend! :)

[y2000hei]

I'm newbie to electronics. Do you think I can also change the 2540 and 7540 to resolve the problem? Do you have photo to show me the relevant positions on the PCB? Many thanks.:lease:

[y2000hei]

Just found the photo of mine (FM23). Is that with the circle?

[ap shift]

They're the ones. page 80 in the service manual. Download this if you haven't already (see earlier post for details) I doubt 7540 would be faulty.

Try the hairdryer test!

[edbarrow]

I've got the green light for ten seconds, then 'protection mode' blinking red light on my 37" philips plasma, the usual three caps have been replaced, but to no joy. I've also switched out 2510, 2540 and 2113.

However, when the transistor at 7050 has its legs unsoldered, the unit fires up, green light comes on, and I can get audio out of the thing, even if the picture doesn't come on.:smashin: Could it be this transistor thats fried itself? if so, why is there only audio when it's removed, unless this transistor has killed something else on the board? My guess is it's this that activates the protection mode and someone else has removed the legs from the board (I re-attached them) in order to over-ride the protection mode.

However, the relays re clicking away as they should so theres no problem on that side of the board. Can't see any dry joints either...

Anyone any ideas? :lease: It's a mystery. :(

[y2000hei]

I replaced 2540 and 7540 last night and my plasma tv can now turn on immediately without the annoying clicks (like brand new):clap:. Replacing the 2662, 2663 and 2664 can only fix the red flashing light problem.

To sum up, the following components are replaced:
2662 - 100 uF 25V
2663 - 100 uF 25V
2664 - 1000 uF 25V
2540 - 100 uF 25V
7540 - L7805CV (TOA-220)

One thing I would like to share with others is that desoldering wick is easier to use and more effective than any other vaccum ones.:lesson: Try it!

Thanks ap shift again for his effort in finding the devil.:smashin:

[Aldownunder]

I may have a part way solution to at least reducing the frustration faced with the Phillips plasma cycling on and off on start up.

I have a 42PF9966/79 that displays the same symptoms on cold startup as many others on this forum have experienced.

I don't have the skills or patience to replace the PSU components, and I think the repair costs will approach the cost of a similarly specced new unit, so have decided to live with the issue until it packs up completely.

However, I had a cunning plan that I proved over the last couple of days.

On startup, my unit would cycle off moments after a picture was displyed on the screen at start up, which got me thinking: what if on startup there was no picture, but instead a blank screen which would draw considerably less power.

As my plasma will always go to the lowest terrestrial (vs AV input) station I have selected as a favourite, I chose a frequency for station 1 that had no signal and turned this on as a favourite.

Now when it starts, there is no signal, just a black screen. The last few mornings have been relatively cold and there is no doubt that the unit would have otherwise cycled on and off, but lo and behold, it comes on and stays on. I have switched to an AV input after 30 seconds and the TV has not missed a beat.

This has allowed me to resist sticking my boot through the screen. I hope that it provides some joy for others.

[ap shift]

Good to hear that that you had success, y2000hei.

I’m sure we all sympathise with Aldownunder’s frustration. .

Maybe what’s happening when you get the screen running on black for a while some heat is building up and a faulty electrolytic capacitor may be reaching it’s proper value allowing the circuit to function normally.

If you could remove the back of the unit and try the hairdryer test maybe you could locate the faulty capacitor.

http://www.avforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-529609.html

While searching for info on this problem I found the above. Barbusa doesn’t tell us if ever fixed his problem. Some interesting comments about the life expectancy of these electrolytic capacitors.

[edbarrow]

It lives! :clap:

The faulty component was a FET- one that controls the TV going into protection mode. With that replaced, as well as the surrounding diode and cap we're back in business. It's no. 7050. If you think you might have the same problem as me, take out the FET (the big black one) and if it conducts all three ways (use a multimeter) then it's gone. They're a few quid each to replace.

Good luck everyone! :thumbsup:

[Brynhyfryd]

Well done Ed! It's good to hear that the old girl's OK!

[kouhei]

Hi Guys

Like everyone I've had the same problem with the Philips plasma! My model is the same as Jacknetuk's and I replaced the resistors which worked and the tv worked again for a couple of months. Now when I switch on the relays click twice but the screen doesn't fire up after a few seconds there's another click which sounds like something not working. Then the green light flashes again and the relays click again. The red light doesn't come on it just keeps trying to fire up. The capacitors are all the 105 degree variety. Anyone got any ideas??

Cheers

[googoo73]

It lives! :clap:

The faulty component was a FET- one that controls the TV going into protection mode. With that replaced, as well as the surrounding diode and cap we're back in business. It's no. 7050. If you think you might have the same problem as me, take out the FET (the big black one) and if it conducts all three ways (use a multimeter) then it's gone. They're a few quid each to replace.

Good luck everyone! :thumbsup:

wheres the fet??? is there a part number

my screen does the clicky thing to start with ut once it turns on the speakers crackle but the screen fails to light up then the light flashes red

[maplhgr]

:lesson:Hello.
I have read these postings from the beginning. I identified the identicle capacitor bulged and leaking as the one pictured by garafax. I am trying to fix my fathers 42PF9361D/37 which he purchase only to the loss of his vision. An old WWII vet who is loosing his sight. This set allowed us to provide him with not only TV but photograph shows of his decendants. I am not happy as I know most of you aren't with Philips. I have some electronic experience but have not practiced it in years. Have to admit the insides of this TV make me feel old.

A few questions if I may. First, I have seen mention to a technical manual. Can anyone give me a lead as to where to obtain one? Secondly, I see a lot of references to various capacitors by number yet it seems a little guessing is going on as to the ratings (specifications) of these capacitors. Is there an available cross reference for the numbers to actual specifications?

So far I have only taken enough screws out to get a look at the boards with an inspection mirror. This weekend I am diving in.

By the way as a point of interest. Studies here in the nuclear power industry have pointed out the necessity to change out electrolytic capacitors in components important to reactor safety on a regular basis. Good thing our reactors aren't designed or maintained by Philips.

Have a great day and wish me luck.

[kouhei]

Agree with the last post. I can't find any of the part numbers listed as I think they're specific to each model. Can anyone tell me if the 3 capacitors thing was tried on the 9945? If so which ones are they?? Sorry for being dense but I've been over the board a couple of times and can't track the blighters down.Cheers

[edbarrow]

Number of the fet on the board is 7050, my board was the FM33 in the 37FD9944 or whatever it is. You'll see it. Get yourself a soldering iron and de-solder the two thin legs and bend them away from the board. If it stays green after that, then this is your problem. However, if you get the constant clicking i don't think this will help. Read some of the earlier posts in this forum.

Good luck!

[y2000hei]

Check mmmmmrob’s blog (http://www.dynamicorange.com/blog/archives/other-technical/fixing_a_plasma.html). There are detailed descriptions and photos and link for the service manual (33.9M). Check the parts number in the Spare Parts List (Ch. 10), you will find the spec of the parts.

Good luck!:)

[maplhgr]

Just an update on my dads 42PF9361D/37. Definitely a bad capacitor (c8059). Bulged and leaking. As soon as I find a replacement and install I will update with status. C8059 is a 10V 3300 uf 105 degree cap. No results searching this thread for 8059.

Another observation. Board was has deposits on it in spots. Not dust. A white corrosion looking film. Got a spray electronic board cleaner and took care of it. Unsure if it was the atmosphere in my fathers apartment or something else. Could be a source of stray voltages. Most of the ends of the capacitors also have signs of some corrosion. Shouldn't see it on aluminum capacitors I believe. Perhaps low grade materials......

Perhaps it is the capacitor quality and many of us are seeing different ones go bad based on their lifespan only. Certainly some would be operating nearer design and could explain some of the common issues. I only hope the one I am changing is the cause of the problem and not a symptom of another....

Have a great weekend.

[maplhgr]

Just noted the photo posted by garafrax shows the same capacitor as mine being bulged. C8059. Hope I have the same results with the replacement. If you have a 42PF9631D/37 search on garafrax to find the picture.

[maplhgr]

No luck finding a capacitor locally. Drove an hour to get to the Philips authorized repair facility...what a joke. They fix mostly washing machines and stoves. I asked about buying an individual capacitor and was told they didn't have any. Proof that they just wanted to replace an entire board for hundreds of dollars. The owner admitted they just replace the boards versus "repairing" broken items. One more reason to not buy Philips again.

Do want to pass on some info. Some comments have been made concerning difficulty in finding replacement capacitors or having to buy them 100 at a time. Richardson electronics which has many of the parts sells them in lots of 100 or more. Richardsons is all over the world. Try Allied electronics instead. www.alliedelec.com (http://www.alliedelec.com). They sell as few or as many as you want. They ship internationally. I just ordered a couple from them. Very well designed and easy to use website.

Another alternative is to go to Illinoiscapacitor.com, a very large manufacturer of quality caps and follow the link to their distributors. They don't sell over the internet to individuals but their website can point you in the right direction. Illinois capacitor is also very useful in making sure you get the right specifications for your replacements. Diagrams include physical dimensions so you will know if it will fit. I simply took the part number from the Illinois website and pasted it into the search function at allied electronics.

[choddo2006]

The owner admitted they just replace the boards versus "repairing" broken items. One more reason to not buy Philips again.

To be fair, I think all manufacturers would be the same

[googoo73]

Number of the fet on the board is 7050, my board was the FM33 in the 37FD9944 or whatever it is. You'll see it. Get yourself a soldering iron and de-solder the two thin legs and bend them away from the board. If it stays green after that, then this is your problem. However, if you get the constant clicking i don't think this will help. Read some of the earlier posts in this forum.

Good luck!

the metronomic clicking stops after a while (2 or 3 try's) and it does 2 clicks but the screen is not lighting up or anything just clicks again and the light goes flashing red.i understand that changing the caps will stop the clicking so i will try that but even if it doesn't click the screen won't work help:lease:

[Robert_98]

I need help trying to find the capacitors in the boards.

The tv model is 37PF7320A/37, it's a Philips 37" and the capacitor numbers 2662, 2663 and 2664 are not listed in the 2 main boards.

I have attached the pictures.

I really appreciate your help.

[maplhgr]

Well I finally have a Television again. Replaced Caps C8059 and C8060 on my 42PF9361D/37. Powered it up and it is working strong. A definite difference is notable in the loudness of the relays energizing.

Thanks to everyone who has provided information in this thread. It all helped in my troubleshooting and confirming the validity of what I was seeing as symptoms.

[maplhgr]

To be fair, I think all manufacturers would be the same

Thanks for putting it in perspective. Perhaps more a commentary on the world we live in today. Many of us can remember when a TV repairman did the troubleshooting and would save the customer money if possible. I believe I was more shocked when the Philips Authorized Repair Facility did not even stock capacitors.

Still your observation is valid and I thank you.

[maplhgr]

Robert. I also was new to this forum a few weeks back and it was a great help. Take the time to search the thread for symptoms common to yours. Not all issues will be common to yours. We have different models but I was also confused by the numbers being offered up by people for capacitors. I didn't figure it out until I took the board out of the TV and found the numbers for the capacitors printed on the circuit card on the side OPPOSITE the components. Have you physically inspected the each capacitor for signs of overheating such as bulging on the end? Any evidence of liquid spatter on anything. I found spatter on the cover I removed to access the circuit cards and it led me directly to the failed capacitors I needed to replace. Each capacitor showed signs of bulging on the end. The cross etched into the end of the electolytic capacitors actually is a design feature made to fail if the capitor fails and builds up pressure inside. Normally when they fail you can see a blackish material on the end of the failed cap. At a minimum feel the ends of any you suspect and see if the top of the capacitor is convex. If it is convex you may be on to something.

[SCO7T]

Hi,

My 18 month old Philips plasma has decided to stop working. I have a 37FD9944/01S that has a seperate tuner box. When you turn on the display the LED goes green for a few seconds then switches to a continuosly rapid flashing red with no picture. I figured it must be the display as I connected my xbox 360 straight in and it still did the same thing.

I contacted Philips who could not help without sending the unit away to be inspected (at my own cost). I then contacted the retailer, Discount Electronics UK, who couldn't have been more unhelpful.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could have happened or any links to some technical advice on Philips plasma (I've already checked Philips.com)

Cheers, H_P.

contact trading standards (consumer advice) as products are supposed to be fit for purpose for the reason they were bought
and should last a reasonable length of time
18 months is no way long enough
you will be supprised what they say
it is not philips that is liable although i thought there products come with 2 year warranties
but the shop you bought it from is who your contract is with
but trading standards will tell you how you stand and how to go about it.
dont feel silly bout phoning them
as you are within your rights
they should get it repaired for you or replace it or give you money for the reapir
hope this helps
regards
scott

[fierysport]

G'day Guys,

I am the not so proud owner of a Philips 42FD9954 plasma TV and she's not the most reliable beast out there. Manufactured in 2003 and purchased second hand by ourselves in 2006, she broke down in the first 6 months with a "secondary power board failure". This little episode cost me $845 (Aussie) to repair but at the time new plasmas of similar ilk were over 2k so we agreed to have it repaired with a new board.

Now we have the blinking red light issue and I have identified the suspected caps that are playing up but the board looks different to others I have seen in the pics. What is the same are the location numbers, i.e. 2262, 2263 & 2264. BUT, my caps have a different rating - could this be due to the new power board methinks?

Mine is: 2262 = 35v 1000uf; 2263 & 2264= 63v 100uf

I'm supposing these are the right caps and they are 105 degrees rated. I'm going to get them replaced and see what happens. I may give it a go myself but I'm scared of damaging the powerboard (v expensive to replace!)

Can't believe the 42" plasmas have so many different power booards in them - you'd think they'd all come from the same factory wouldn't you?

Wish me luck or I'm going to buy a new Sony!!!:thumbsup:

[fierysport]

Hi Guys - changed the cpas and hey presto, she's working again - yay!

Thanks for all the advice and Barbusa for his original instructions. Saved me a fortune.

Fiery!:thumbsup:

[budnshe]

same thing was wrong with my Phillips Plasma 42PF9631D/37 . Replaced both the same capacitors in pic.Thanks for posting good pic and info.Thanks to the posts here my Phillips Plasma 42PF9631D/37 is working again!

It had the green light for 5 seconds then red flashing light blinking 7 times issue. It happened all of a sudden. I wole up one morning and it wouldn't turn on.

Read the posts, took it apart and took the power supply to a freind who used to work on circuitry. He spotted a bad capacitor immediately and replaced it with one from a computer power supply he had lying around.

Here's a few pics of my board
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/garafrax/TV%20Repair/HPIM1458.jpg
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o229/garafrax/TV%20Repair/HPIM1456.jpg

If you look carefully in the first pic you can see the bad capacitor. Notice how the top is bowed upwards. The capacitor in question is almost dead center of the picture

[duxsi]

I have a Philips 32FD9954/17S with a FM23 unit.

Can someone please be so kind as to tell me which part#'s I need to order from http://www.alliedelec.com/ (http://www.alliedelec.com/)

I'd like to replace the following capacitors (and resistors) with 105 deg C ones. - 2662, 2663, 2664, 2540, 7540 but I cannot find the parts.

Thanks to all in advance.

PS. Excellent forum!!

[seolta]

Hello all body ! Sorry for my english, y french man living in Spain...

what led are you refering (Red Light)?

Red Light Flashing of the display or of the Receiver unit box ?

my problem ist red light flashing on the led Standby of the BOX FTR 9964.

I like to know if ist the problem refering in this post...

Thank...

[y2000hei]

duxsi,

Pls refer to my post #127 to get the information of the components.

Cheers.

[choddo2006]

Hello all body ! Sorry for my english, y french man living in Spain...

what led are you refering (Red Light)?

Red Light Flashing of the display or of the Receiver unit box ?

my problem ist red light flashing on the led Standby of the BOX FTR 9964.

I like to know if ist the problem refering in this post...

Thank...

I think it's on the TV

[duxsi]

It's the actual TV unit (not the receiver). Red when on Stand-by , Green when powered "on".

[seolta]

Thank Choddo and duxsi.
so i will continu to look for solution in the web. well in my case the red flashing ist from the box receiver unit FTR 9964. yesterday night i conect laptot direct to display and work well, so the problem come from the box.. and i am sure ist a simple capacitor problem.
THIS FORUM ARE OF ALL I DID SEE IN THE WEB, ON OF THE BEST.... GOOD WORK, THANK.... FOR HELP.

[meridianman]

Hello All
Is it possible that someone could save me from a fate worse than death:lease:

My 42pf9631d/10 give me the green light ,3 clicks then 5 red blinks yesterday

Now my 3 kids are going mental because they have no tv!

I have stripped of the back to inspect ,hoping that it was the same fault as Garafax + Budnshe as they have the 42pf9631d/37 but when i removed the cover it is a different setup,were Garafax + Budnshe have 1 power supply board i have 2.A good visual inspection of the caps and they look OK.
I have attached 2 pics,you can see the 2 psu boards(board A + board B)

Has anyone had this fault with a 42pf9632d/10,if so can you tell me what was done to rectify the problem or can someone point me in the right direction to try and isolate the problem,does anyone now the blinking led codes.
Any help would be gratefully appreciated before i get lynched by my kids.