TLC (Varilight) Remote Touch Dimmer

[milanlad]

I would like to double check regarding the remote dimmer switches on the TLC website:

If I have a 2 gang dimmer switch rated at 400W, what is the maximum load per gang if I'm using mains GU halogen lamps?

Thanks

[hornydragon]

for GU you halve the rating i think its all on the site..... 250W max...

[milanlad]

for GU you halve the rating i think its all on the site..... 250W max...

Its not very clear on the site.

It does say however that for a 250W 2 gang dimmer, you can load each gang with 100W?

[digisocialist]

I have just installed a Varlight Remote Dimmer Switch. Not sure I understand the 2 gang thing you refer to, but if it's of any help I installed 7 x 50W 240V mains GU Halogen Dimmable Downligters - the max load on the Dimmer switch was 400w (maximum of 8 x 50W or 16 x 25w bulbs). I got mine from B&Q for conveience and it works great. Programmed it to 0 on my TV remote and it works a dream. Future upgrade will be via Marantz RC LR :)

If you are going for Halogen Spots then 50w bulbs should suffice (thought this depends on the size of the room); consider the heat output of 400w of power!

[milanlad]

I have just installed a Varlight Remote Dimmer Switch. Not sure I understand the 2 gang thing you refer to, but if it's of any help I installed 7 x 50W 240V mains GU Halogen Dimmable Downligters - the max load on the Dimmer switch was 400w (maximum of 8 x 50W or 16 x 25w bulbs). I got mine from B&Q for conveience and it works great. Programmed it to 0 on my TV remote and it works a dream. Future upgrade will be via Marantz RC LR :)

If you are going for Halogen Spots then 50w bulbs should suffice (thought this depends on the size of the room); consider the heat output of 400w of power!

Hi
Did you use a single gang 400W switch or a 2 gang (dual) 400W dimmer switch?

[garyc]

with regards to the varilight remote dimmers, if you install a 1 gang master dimmer and a slave unit i.e 2 way . do both units pickup the IR signal, so basically it doesn't matter which one you point your remote at?

cheers

Gary

[hornydragon]

i dont think slaves are IR compatible... mate had one but had to send it back as he only had 2 core to second location.....

[digisocialist]

Hornydragon,

The instructions say it's suitable for multi-way if using master and slave units. I'm just using the one dimmer as a master which has a 400W unit inside it I think. I just connected the Neutral & Live to the connection box inside (as per the diagram on the instructions) and it works great.

[hornydragon]

hmm his slave would turn light off but not on.... odd, glad you're happy

[erockybalboa]

If you want to replace your regular switch with a dimmer switch (http://homegarden.expertvillage.com/interviews/diy-home-repair.htm), it's simple to do, and it will also improve your lighting options. The first thing you want to do is remove your cover plate, which is very simple, just removing the screws. And you want to make sure you've cut the power off at the breaker, because you don't want to touch anything in here until you've done so. The next thing you'll want to do is remove the switch by simply loosening these screws- it helps to have a power screwdriver but it's not necessary.

I don't have much wire to work with here in this old house, but you would normally have excess wire which would allow you to pull the switch out. and then you would detach the wires from the side of this switch by loosening these screws. Once you detach the wires, you just want to straighten the ends so that you can attach the wires on the dimmer switch (http://homegarden.expertvillage.com/videos/install-dimmer-switch.htm) to it. In most houses, you'll have a white wire and a black wire. In this old house, there are no such things. But it doesn't matter when you're installing a dimmer because it can go to either wire. You're going to attach them with these wire nuts, which you simply twist the wires together and you twist the wire nuts over each connection.

Once you've done so, you'll simply fold up the excess wires, push them to the back so that you have room to put this in there, and then everything is just in reverse. You'll put the screws back in the same holes that the old switch came out of. And then you'll simply put the knob back on, turn on the power at the breaker, which I've already done, and you have light

[njg]

Hi Guys!

Hope I'm not outta place here, but this thread seems to have some knowhow regarding the varilight IR switches I need advice on!

I'm straddling the boundaries of what kind of home automation I want to live with for the next few years. Had the usual average joe setup of pronto controlling a TV,DVD, Sky and an IR light dimmer and associated macros. Thats it!

However, after a serious renovation undertake by moi I really think I should go the extra mile and get into PC automation of devices, X10, Homeseer and all that.

However, I JUST KNOW this could be painful! If i could get away with IR commands, I think I just might!

Here it is, the nutshell:

These dimmers, could I assign one each to elements that I need control over, such one per lighting scene? Probably not a problem, I'm thinking :confused:

More to the point, though: using one wired into a non lighting application for a DIY electric plasma screen lift , and a similar type DIY door opening mechanism. As long as its within the wattage it shouldn't matter should it? I would just be letting the switch do the switching, rather than the little manual rocker that controls them???

That could mean an array of about to 6 dimmer switches, but I could live with that if I could achieve a fair level of control via remote, rather than venture into the more exotic side of automation.

Of course, I could be talking claptrap, as I am no spark!

PS. Any advice on the best solution if I want to repeat my IR commands, ie: press it on the remote and have them blasted to awkward locations.

Any and all help greatly appreciated, guys!

Thanks!

Nick :thumbsup: