Project Screen Goo

[inzaman]

First a bit of background, i really enjoy home cinema which i have been doing for about the last three years and particularly enjoy the diy aspect of it and learning about how it all works without being to techy. I have made the merlino and twisted snake power leads and then when i got my first projector Sanyo Z2 i made a screen out of black out material over a woden frame.

When i first projected an image on the bo material i wasnt that impressed as it seemed to glow and looked washed out so i firstly painted it icestorm 6 but it still wasnt good enough so i painted it a mix of 5 and 6 to much better effect i.e the glowing had gone and the blacks were now quite dark.

As this screen was my first effort and i had started to get the upgrade bug, i wanted to buy a fixed screen and had pretty much settled on a permawall hccv from da-lite which weighed in at about £600, then i came accross the Goo System and the diy in me just had to give it a go.

I ordered 6mm mdf board 84inch x 48inch and 1inch x 1inch wood strip 84inch long from a wood merchant. Then i bought two paint rollers two paint trays and three smooth gloss roller heads. I then ordered the Goo, Digital Grey Base Coat with Digital Light Grey top coat both x 1Ltr, i also ordered the 2inch flock tape.
The Goo base coat is quite thick with the top coat being very thin, but both are quite easy to roll imo.

Painting the Board
I rolled the mdf board with two coats of normal wood undercoat leaving an hour between each coat. I then thoroughly cleaned the roller tray and used a new roller head to roll three coats of the base coat, leaving an hour between each coat. I then left this for 24 hours to dry thoroughly, and so i could then do the top coat in normal light and with the lights on so i could see any potential roller marks. The top coat was rolled the next day again using a new roller and tray, the first coat still showed the base coat so i applied two other coats, again leaving just over an hour between each coat.

Tips on painting would be to definitely have a very light environment so you can see any roller marks, be very careful when overlapping coats and dont over apply.

Finishing
I left the final top coat to dry for about another five hours before attempting to move the screen. I then no nails and screwed the 1.5inch x 1inch strip wood to the back top of the screen and screwed hooks into this wood for the picture rail wire. The next day, to ensure that the goo was thoroughly dry, i applied the flock tape as border, 2inch at each sides and 1.5inch for top and bottom giving a viewable screen of 80inch by 45inch. The flock tape has the advantage of giving a black border and also covering the screw holes, i then positioned the screen and set the pj back up.

Conclusion/Recommendations
The finished screen colour is lighter than my old screen i would say it is about the same lightness as icestorm 6, not same grey colour though just the same lightness.

When i first projected onto my Goo screen i was amazed by how bright the colours were in relation to my old screen, i can even use the projector with ambient light which i couldnt do with bo material but could do with icestorm 5/6 mix.
The only colour that is not any better is the black level, i could have probably got deeper blacks had i gone the digital grey top coat route as opposed to the light grey route but i have made my screen to last a few pj upgrades not just for the Z2.

I was reasonably happy with the icestorm 5/6 mix but i have now realised that yes that infact does give a deepish black but it does also darken all of the other colours in the spectrum and by a considerable amount.
Also with the Goo screen door is far less of an issue, scenes where i could just view screen door i can no longer see any or see far less and only if i go looking. The colours seem far more natural and the picture seems to have more depth to it or more of a distinct 3d effect.
My room also has cream ceilings and with the Goo screen there just seems to be far less light shining on the ceiling and onto the walls than there was with the icestorm 5/6 mix?

The only real downside at the moment is that i do have two roller streaks down one side that stand out during certain light scenes, even though i was very very careful when rolling. Searching avs a few people have had this problem but these do dissapear/reduce over a few weeks as Goo apparently can take several weeks/months to cure.

Also for anybody thinking of doing this for a screen size similar to mine i would just buy 1ltr of base coat and 0.5litre of top coat.

Notwithstanding the roller streaks i am really glad i opted for the Goo system as i now have a very professional looking fixed screen that gives a very nice picture and has cost me £170 as opposed to £600.

[inzaman]

A picture of the finished screen

[inzaman]

A picture of the comparison between the Goo colour and the Icestorm 5/6 mix. Goo is on the left and icestorm 5/6 is on the right.

I will also try and get some pictures of a side by side with the icestorm and Goo but it is a pain trying to get the two screens together. I did take some screen shots last night of the xbox image but they were a bit blurred as i dont have a tri pod.

[MattH]

Any news on the comparison screenshots inzaman, I am interested as I have bought an HT1000 and some Goo, just waiting for the time so that I can get everything sorted out. Another question for you, you rolled the paint, did you think about spraying or think it too difficult, I am in this dilemma at the moment, rolling easier but spraying supposed to produce better results - providing you can do it?

[inzaman]

Matt, will try and get some side by side screen shots over the next few days just started a new job so not had much time to fiddle in the last few weeks.

For me spraying would have been too difficult as i would have had to buy a sprayer and spray outside etc. I would have liked to have given it a go but the rolling route for me was far more accessible. The only problem with rolling is roller streaks which for me have reduced considerably since i first posted this thread, i believe they take a few months to totally disappear.

[MattH]

Thanks, look forward to seeing the before and after shots and your views.

[mikeaitch]

Great job Inzaman:smashin:

I too have some Goo awaiting application, digital grey for base and top coat.

I saw it at Nexnix compared to a stewart and could not see £300 difference in it, let alone £3k!!!

I think I'm going to spray though, its looking like a trip to B and Q or HSS hire shop

Be interested to find out if blacks improve

[Gary Lightfoot]

Ken Hotte deisgns the goo for specific projectors, and given the slight pink effect the screen has, makes me wonder if it's that colour to take into account the red deficiency of the lamp.

The Z2 (and many other digital pjs) is red deficient, so the scren will help boost red in much the same way as an fl-day filter would.

I'd be interested to know how the overall image looks. Are the colours improved, and was the pj slightly green in the first place?

If you've got a copy of Avia, could you put the horizontal ire display up (the one that shows black to white with grey levels in between) and see if any of the greys have a colour shift to them?

Cheers,

Gary.

[inzaman]

Gary have you seen a screen goo screen, the only reason that i ask is that i am sure mine does not have a pink shift. Well not to my eye anyway which isnt that well trained :grin: . I have avia and will try what you suggest when i get a few minutes. Still trying to get round to doing some comparitive screen shots but it is porving pretty awkeard to get the two screens side by side :(

[Gary Lightfoot]

I only say pink because in the pic, the screen has a pink hue.

Having looked closer, your ceiling coving looks pink too, so it's probably just the photo. :)

Gary.

[mikeq]

Or did you have a light on in the room? tungsten lights give a slight orange hue in photographs, fluorescent gives a slight green hue in photographs.

[inzaman]

Now you come to mention it, it does look rather pink. Def must have been the lights as the coving is antique white and the screen should be a light grey.

[Gary Lightfoot]

Oh well, that's a prefectly good theory out of the window then. :grin:

I thought I'd seen another pink screen form ken recently though via one of his posts on avs. I'll have to try and find it sometime..

Gary.

[avanzato]

The pink on the photo will just be an incorrect white balance the digital camera should correct it automatically but they often get confused. IIRC there was a post on AVS about a new/prototype Stewart screen that had an obvious pink tint is that what you're thinking of Gary?

So onto the Goo. Does it make the texture of the screen surface more obvious. I would be painting onto a current screen that has a texture and I've found high gain gets a bit 'sparkly' with my Z1. OTOH I can get large 8x4 sheets of very smooth foam cored board but getting them to my house is pretty difficult.

[Gary Lightfoot]

Hi Mat,

You could well be right about the pink screen being a Stewart now that you mention it - it was a while ago when I saw it....

Gary.

[inzaman]

Does it make the texture of the screen surface more obvious.

I rolled mine onto a perfectly smooth surface (mdf board) and it definitely has a texture which i imagine is the roller texture. If i was to paint this on a textured surface i would def see about getting it sprayed.

[DJW]

What roller did you use, as I see there are now rollers specifically for GLOSS paints ? ......one presumes to get as near a smooth finish as possible.

Dave

[inzaman]

I got the smoothest ones for gloss that i could find, i think that they are white foam

[inzaman]

Dave, what i would recommend if you are not painting the goo on a wall is to put your screen in place first and paint it. That way you can keep shining your projector on it after each coat to ensure there is no or very minimal streaking, they do fade/disappear after a while though.

[Gliese 581c]

any pics inzaman ? I'm interested in goo. Would like to see how it looks with a projected image

[inzaman]

I'll take some over the weekend and post them up, but it does look very good. I dont know if a photo will give the true feel of the more pronounced 3d of the image though.

[Gliese 581c]

ok :) thanks.

[Gary Lightfoot]

I'd forgotten about this thread (no email notification for some reason - probably spam filtered, I'll have to look), but thought I'd give an up-date on the pink screen I mentioned earlier.

I recently had the pleasure of speaking with Don Stewart of Stewart Filmscreen, and I asked him about a 'Pinkhawk' or 'Rosehawk' screen I thought I'd seen mentioned on the forums. He told me that it was a real screen that was indeed designed to boost red due to digital pjs having lamps that are red deficient. It used a pinky base coat, with a clear optical coating. It's only available in Japan - one of their marketing points is that it isn't available anywhere else in the world.

Of course even with a pink screen, the lamps colour changes over time, so although it may be colour corrected initialy, it will drift at one point, so recalibration will be necessary. A lens filter will do the same job and allow for easier changing (redder lens at a later date), but will reduce light output.

Gary.

[godisi]

Hey, nice job mate,how thick was your mdf board, and this flock tape stuff, is there another name for it, what exactly is it, im trying to find something similar here in nz, i can get the medium density fibre alrite, just not the flock tape.

other thing is, you say you had two coats of normal wood undercoat,how smooth a surface is mdf as it is, did you sand the board down at all before coating with wood undercoat???

[inzaman]

Cheers godisi, the mdf is just 6mm thick as it is heavy stuff when you start to get thicker and i didnt want to bring the wall down that it was hanging from.

The mdf at 6mm can bend a bit so at the top and bottom i screwed 1x2 strips of wood to make it rigid and still maintain the relative lightness.

The mdf is very very smooth so didnt need any sanding, the first coat will go on strange as it is so smooth but after that it is fine.

As for the flock tape i got mine from nexnix, you could also search for velvet tape as that is pretty much what it is.

I am in the process of trying to take some screen shots but have been busy of late.

[godisi]

Sorry but i dont understand what you mean by "so at the top and bottom i screwed 1x2 strips of wood to make it rigid", 1x2? would you be able to show me a pic of this instead, that will make it much clearler if poss.

Also, my screen will be fixed to the wall, would it be easier for me to just nail the board to the wall(if this is even possible), and then cover each nail mark with the velvet tape border???, will 4 screws(1 at each end) work if i was to go down this path?

Last, but not least:), what type of goo should i go for, i have a very bright room to say the least, walls are very bright blueish, white cieling, white doors etc.... and one big window, what i want is the pj to bring out its best at night time when its very dark, daytime, not so worried but if i could i would still like to watch a bit of tv here and there, is this possible with my wall and this sort of paint, i wouldnt mind painting the walls etc, if it will mean getting a better picture at the end of the day, ill just go a few shades darker( not very dark or black). Atm, my walls arent very specular in shine, semi gloss paint i think it is i used....

if it helps it all, im going to buy an sanyo z2 pj very soon!

thanks to all in reply, you guys are great help

[inzaman]

This picture should show you the wood at the top of the screen

[inzaman]

I screwed the wood sections at the top and bottom as i wanted to hang it from the picture rails, the flock tape then covers the screws so you cannot see them at all.

I also have a Z2 and i went for the digital grey base and the digital light grey top coat which gives a gain of about 1.3 to 1.4. I didnt go for this combination though for the Z2 as i will no doubt upgrade, if i wanted a screen for the Z2 only i would probably go with the digital grey base and top coat.

Also the top coat is far more expensive than the base coat but for my screen which is 7ft wide by 4ft high the half litre size is more than enough. I purchased 1 litre of both and have over half a litre of both left and that is with three coats.

[inzaman]

Also try here (http://img72.photobucket.com/albums/v219/inzaman/Screen%20Shots/) for some screen shots, will post some more once i get time to take some :)

Select slide show for closer shots

[godisi]

One other thing, how good will picture be with the z2 at night time with this screen goo paint?, this is where id like it to shine the most, and is it really worth me painting my walls to account for the pj, if it's that big a deal i will.

what would be a good colour to paint, and what type of paint would work the best???


cheers

[inzaman]

Prior to the screen goo i used blackout material and the light being reflected back from that pretty much lit up the room and really washed the picture out, i have light green walls and cream ceilings/above the picture rail.
With the goo however the light being reflected back is very controlled and there is no noticeable washing out of the picture.

I am moving room towards the end of this year and will personally go for a more darker colour which should improve the picture further, according to a lot of the text on these forums.

The best colour to paint the room would be mat black or a dark grey but if it is not a dedicated room then a dark mat colour that you can 'live' with.

[Ciaran500]

Are you happy with the Digital Light Grey or do you think you should of went with the Digital Grey?

[inzaman]

I am happy with the digital light grey as i didnt build the screen specifically for a lcd projector as i wanted something that would last a few pj upgrades.

If i was doing it specifically for a lcd then i would probably go with the digital grey, so long as it is not too dark, i.e icestorm 5/6 dark as for me after trying my current goo screen my old icestorm screen just darkens too many of the colours imo

[godisi]

what size black velevet border is best?, i know the border frame is to lessen reflection etc......but what size should it be, the bigger the better or not?, also im going to paint my rooms in the weekend, matt white cieling, semi dark grey walls, and dark grey designer wall( which will be the wall the screen will be used on), and dark grey doors etc, making for a good looking, non goth look for my bedroom:), im pretty happy with my colour choice, im post preducting the room and i havent got the pj yet, i was looking at gettin the z2, but that tx100 of hitachis looks very impressive indeed, and has a good throw which i need having a really small screen. the only thing that im worried about is the amount of lens shift it can do(which is only 1/4 for the tx100), whereas the z2 can do up to 1/2 screen size!

any reccomendations comparing the two????

[Ciaran500]

You said you have alot of Goo left over. How much did you buy?

[godisi]

I completed the room in the weekend, had to go semi gloss on the walls, the wall have very little light specularity and the feature wall which my screen will be on is matt dark grey sort of color, my room is looking very dark atm, need some lighting to make thing light up more. Very happy with the result. Tha matt paint looks almost identical in speularity to the semi gloss, so i dont think it should b much of an issue.

[inzaman]

You said you have alot of Goo left over. How much did you buy?

I bought a litre of base coat and a litre of top coat, but if you are painting onto wood you will definitely get away with 0.5 litre of each.

[cwick]

I did a 1600x900mm mdf goo screen, and used about half of the 1/2 litre of digital grey base and top coat that I bought. Good thing too - after a good six weeks the stripes are far too visible for my liking. Going to try a light wet&dry, and then a couple more top coats (in different directions this time !) and see how it goes.

[Ciaran500]

Hmmm, I was hoping to spray it on and according to the goo website that uses alot more.

I think I 'll end up having to buy a litre. :\

[inzaman]

Spraying would definitely be the preferred option.

[mikeaitch]

I sprayed mine, 9 ft wide, and had very little topcoat left over

Very pleased with the results, the pq seems to be improving almost daily

Perhaps better blacks can be had by going for digital grey rather than lite grey, but I'm happy with my choice as it works fine in ambient light :smashin:

[inzaman]

Mike, did you spray it yourself?

[Pulsar]

Hi Guys.

This is very interesting, think I may go for some for my HS10. Just 2 questions.

Is this goo best applied to wood, or material?

How much is it for a litre of basecoat and a litre of topcoat?

Cheers

Rob

[mikeaitch]

Yes Inzaman, bought a diy sraygun for about £50, did the screen then all my fencing outside!

Pulsar- cost is about £100 best on wood, don't think it would work well on material :smashin:

[hatcher]

Hi fellow DIY guys. I Made a fixed screen too creating a 213cm x 120cm 16:9 frame and screwing a slightly cut down sheet of 6mm MDF on it. However I pva glued / stapled some Ellie screen material over it and edged it. All good so far but since adding some felt tape to edge it I've introduced some wrinkles, not on me! where the tape is. I know it's a slight departure from the goo but if anyone has any ideas or similar experiences? I tried to apply it without stretching it so that it wouldn't pull but it must have done.

Other than that it's fine (some pics for interest).

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/raymond.nutt/pictures/screen.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/raymond.nutt/pictures/avroom.jpg

[inzaman]

Pulsar, i applied it to wood, i imagine that it would be rather more awkward to apply this to material but probably possible.

As for price i think it was about £130 for a litre of base and top coat, the top coat is the far more expensive of the two though.

[Pulsar]

inzaman,

Thanks very much for the info.

Cheers

Rob

[AMc]

Projector Central has a great article and review of screens inc. Goo Systems which seems to hold up pretty well against the competition.
http://www.projectorcentral.com/goo_systems_projector_screens.htm

[cruncher75]

hi ive just got myself a projector and there seems to be a lot involed in the screens i thought u would just be able to paint a peace of wood white and that would be it

[hatcher]

Hi cruncher. there's nothing wrong with doing that. It's not quite as good as a purpose made screen (be it professional, DIY, material or goo) but it works okay. If you look around the forum there's many who use a normal painted surface, even the wall. a friend of mine used his projector on a lemon lounge wall for ages before upgrading to a draper. Try it and if it's acceptable then you've saved over £100. If you don't like it then you've not lost much.

[cruncher75]

were u get them wall units from hatcher

[hatcher]

Ikea - £55 each

[TurboTronix]

Spray Painted 100" Diagonal surface with two Coats of 1 X Digital Grey Base Coat bottle (1000 ml), and 5 Coats of 2 X Top Digital Grey Lite bottle (1000 ml X 2).

The Base coat gave me a solid color with no lines. However after I spray painted the Top Coat I got 3 thick lines running from the top to the bottom of my screen (As if it had not dried out or something). When the paint was wet it was of a dark grey color and when it dried out it became lite grey which I assume it should do. But 3 thick lines stayed dark grey for 3 days and counting.

Do I have to repaint? Because I am not willing to spend another 100$ or so on paint...Will this affect the quality of the image?

Anyone had this similar problem?

I posted the pics here (http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/Screen.htm)

Very bad customer support I should add since for some reason they are ignoring my emails. They offered to help when I first contacted them but now they are ignoring all my emails... :confused:

This thing is going to cost me around the same price as a regular screen.

Are they the best paint company for an LCD HDTV projector??

T_Tronix

[inzaman]

Turbotronix i had these lines which were pretty bad at first as i had rolled the goo on and not sprayed. If you have some goo left you could rub those areas down and respray.

If you wait however i,e a few months then they should disappear or reduce to unnoticeable as the screen apparently takes a long time to cure. The lines that i had and i had a few due to the limitations of rolling have all but now disppeared, i can only see one or two on very light scenes and only if i go looking for them, i imagine that these will reduce further in the coming months.

[monopole]

Has anyone tried using a paint pad with screen goo? they're great for normal painting/varnishing... i find them far better and smoother than rollers... but it could turn into an expensive experiment.

[mattsimis]

Has anyone tried using a paint pad with screen goo? they're great for normal painting/varnishing... i find them far better and smoother than rollers... but it could turn into an expensive experiment.


I second this, Im getting some soon and those I talk about it tell me a paint pad is much better than a roller. Afaik, there should be no problem with acryllic based paints.



Matt

[mikeaitch]

For those that are thinking of spraying, here are some application notes direct from Goo:

Here's a bit on spraying considerations that seems to help:


Compressor cup gun or HVLP sprayers tend to work best. This product is not -quite- like a latex paint in viscosity, flow, or run and sag conditions. It will behave slightly differently, but not exactly the same. It behaves more like a solvent based pearl car coating, or similar to a urethane finishing mix.It dries about 30% faster than a latex, on average. It sags a bit faster as the particle mix is a bit more potent. We had to split the difference between having a rollable product vs. a sprayable one...at the same time we had the properties needed to keep the particle mixture in suspension for long periods of time. The mix is rather complex, and it behaves like a 'rollable' 'pearl' mixture that is highly pigmented..with multiple particle sizes. Like spraying a coating that has incredibly small but uniform sized large amounts of particles of sand. As you may guess, sag and run conditions happen just a bit earlier in the spraying and usage levels. Lay down multiple thin coats. Use up all of the product (of Basecoat and Topcoat each), or if you have a uniform multiple coat (minimum of two coats of base and top, respectively) surface, stop there to avoid the possibility of texture problems cropping up.

The issue is that it literally is a premium grade video screen surface coating that has been formulated to be as rollable and as sprayable as is possible, while still retaining the finest qualities of that 'video projection screen surface'.

When diluting to work with your spray system of choice, try 5% water (distilled) at a time. No more. stir thoroughly, ie, 10 minutes of stirring. It will change in viscosity over this time period. Slight, but it will. The 10 minutes stirring is to avoid clumping. The particles are very fine and uniform in texture, which can lead to clumping with inadequate stirring or mixing. The mixture is very highly pigmented, and when adding water it must be done in small increments and mixed to check viscosity each time. The 'break' point where the mixture 'thins out' happens very fast when adding water. It needs to be done in those 5% increments, when it is a product you have not handled before. Once you've used the product a few times, have fun and do as you desire, but these initial 'first time' handling instructions should be paid proper attention.

Thinning with water is the method of choice for getting to a better flow rate for your spray system but an acrylic 'flow agent' can be sent by us to use with the product and it will aid in flow, atomization, and wetting. Be warned though, that it WILL slow the drying time,and what we send you as a flow agent is very potent and should be used in that way, ie..sparingly. 15-30 drops per liter of product, mix and then test. If you are going to add some small amounts of water for thinning, add the flow release to that. Please remember that both water and flow release will reduce tension, and the sag and run problems will occur with thinner coatings than it will when not using the flow release. The flow release is primarily intended for use in extremely dry conditions and nowhere else

[cosmic023]

Thanks for the tips Mike, just what i needed. I'm looking into doing a new DIY screen using CRT Goo.

I think the method of spraying would be easier (If your careful to avoid runs) and produce a better finish.

From your post do you sell Goo ??

[mikeaitch]

Thanks for the tips Mike, just what i needed. I'm looking into doing a new DIY screen using CRT Goo.

I think the method of spraying would be easier (If your careful to avoid runs) and produce a better finish.

From your post do you sell Goo ??

Nope - the advice came from Goo themseves via email

You can send me your money though :devil:

[cosmic023]

Well cheers for the tips Mike, even if they did come from Goo !! :grin:

Could you use an electric paint sprayer, if an air type wasn't available ??

Something like this ??
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4314260037

I'm still looking into one of these DIY paint formulas over on the AVS forums in the US.

Currently waiting for an ingredients list, supposed to be an exact copy and the results look very good and it's far cheaper too. So if that doesn't work out, i'll order some Goo from the US.

If their an importer/dealer for this country ??

Cheers

[RICKYJ]

Try www.nexnix.co.uk

UK's sole distributor of Goo products, I believe.

Ricky :smashin:

[cosmic023]

Cheers Ricky for the link........Pretty pricey tho !!

1ltr CRT Base Coat = £18.31 1ltr CRT Top Coat = £88.78

So that's £107.09 (£125.84 with the dreaded VAT !!)

Well i still could import it, as i've got friends in the US.......or go with the DIY paint formula ?

EDIT:
Just checked the US prices $144 (£78.09) Before shipping, so you should be able to get it for less than £100. Would you have any hassle with customs 'tho ??

[inzaman]

Would you have any hassle with customs 'tho ??

In all probability yes :mad:

[mattsimis]

Yeah, www.nexnix.co.uk , under the "Projector Screens" section.


Matt

[inzaman]

Glad to say that my lines have now all but disappeared, after six months or so. Dont understand it really as i have just changed my dvd player to a hcpc and the screen lines are no longer visible. Either its a pure coincidence or for some reason the lumens from the pj are different via dvi and hence affecting the reflectivity :confused:

Anyway the lines are now at last gone so i am even more impressed with the product.

[ngod]

I have heard a lot of GOO.
If I want to make a white top coat please advise what base coat I need
White Base Coat
Digital Grey Base Coat or
Digital Grey Light Base.
What's the difference.
I need a Screen size of approx 3X2 metres please advise how much I need of each.

[inzaman]

Id imagine that you would use the white base coat but if you order from nexnix they will advise you.
I did order 1 litre for a 7ft by 4.5ft screen and have plenty left over so 1 litre should be more than enough depending on what you are painting it onto.

[MississippiMan]

Glad to say that my lines have now all but disappeared, after six months or so. Dont understand it really as i have just changed my dvd player to a hcpc and the screen lines are no longer visible. Either its a pure coincidence or for some reason the lumens from the pj are different via dvi and hence affecting the reflectivity :confused:

Anyway the lines are now at last gone so i am even more impressed with the product.

Goo screens "mature" with age, and do not reach full cure until at least 3 month or so, and progressively look better as time goes on.

[TurboTronix]

Well it has been several months now since I came on this forum. I would like to update you guys on the problem I had that I posted my comments on earlier on this thread. Well I took care of it, mastered my "spray painting" skills and now I got a smooth screen whom I am very very pleased of regarding picture quality (amazing picture, crazy colors, just something to brag about at this point). Screen Goo paint is the way to go if you are planing to get a projector (If you want the best and I say "the best" picture quality results).

If you are going to spray paint make sure you know how or else you'll get the same results that I got in the begining. But I can assure you if you do a good job spray painting you will see how beautiful the outcome is (smooth painting with no lines what so ever).

Anyhow, I'll be posting very soon a final picture of how my screen looks like today (finally got that basement project finished).


Sincerely,

T_Tronix :cool:

[inzaman]

Anyhow, I'll be posting very soon a final picture of how my screen looks like today (finally got that basement project finished).

Would be very interested in seeing that, also the basement conversion :)

[mikeaitch]

Just upgraded to hS50-

The Goo is a Very good partner for it

Be interested in pics also as I'm about to redo to wall etc to maximise my new found contrast :smashin:

[Pulsar]

Hi.

I have a quick question. Has anyone applied Goo to a roll-up screen? If so, what were the results like? I have some Goo sitting here, and a pull-down screen on the way, would be nice to make use of it.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

[TurboTronix]

Well sorry for the delay I just did not have time to take any pictures. So here are a few pictures I took yesterday. These are the first of many to come :) I will take more later on showing some video quality on the screen. We are also doing some touchups (paint, moldings) so the project is not finish yet...

http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/HomeTheater/1.jpg
http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/HomeTheater/2.jpg
http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/HomeTheater/3.jpg
http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/HomeTheater/4.jpg
http://www.golden.net/~ronlinder/HomeTheater/5.jpg

[martian1]

Great job :smashin: I want to do this as well, were did you get the spray gun equipment..also did you undercoat screen with a standard paint before using GOO? My pj coming soon got to get this done pretty quick.

Thanks

[Wannabe-THX]

Turbo, thats some setup you have there. Very cool indeed.

Do you have any pictures of the screen in use?

Fish

[inzaman]

That is some impressive set up, the screen looks very good as well :thumbsup:

[martian1]

Just applied final coats of goo, hopefully lines etc are now at a minimum :smashin: a big thanks to inzaman for his help with this i will try and have a screening tommorrow and post some screenshots :grin:
I have not applied flock yet as i want to see if my dimentions have worked out will lightly mark flock border up tommorrow and see if image fits ok :god:
I just got my projector this week and since i have been on nights friday will be my first chance to have a play :clap:
Oh..if things work out ok i will also try and post my methods for paint rolling just to add to inzamans, you guys will need as much advice as possible with this !