PDA

View Full Version : X10 IR543 controller & low energy light bulbs


miketango75
31-10-2003, 8:51 PM
Dear All,

I had thought that my X10 infrared controller which I've had for about four years had broken, it's an IR543. Lately, when I used my pronto nothing happened and when I used the controllers the LED remained on permanently (controlling lights). Only after leaving it unplugged would it work again, sometimes for a couple of days, sometimes for a minute.

I decided to source a new one and on the site noted the following piece of text

'The unit can get interference from flourescant lights and/or "energy saving" lights and therefore should not be placed in a room where these are used.'

I therefore removed all my low energy light bulbs in both the standard lamps and ceiling lights and replaced them with 'normal' light bulbs. Hey presto the IR controller works reliably.

Is there any modification/alteration I can do to ensure the controller works with the low energy bulbs ?

Why the interference in the first place ?

Thanks for any help

Ian

simon1
01-11-2003, 1:07 AM
I have just recently bought the IR7243 (CE approved version). I had problems like yours, ie the red light would remain on and it wouldn't control things.

It was situated about 6 inches from a table lamp with a 40w ordinary bulb. Thing was, even with the lamp off, I still had problems.

I had the IR7243 plugged in to the double electrical socket that a lamp module was also plugged into. When I moved the lamp and its module to another socket, problem disappeared.

Strange.

I've noticed if the IR7243 receives lots of commands after pressing your remote repeatedly, the red light stays on and it refuses to work - either have to wait 5 minutes or unplug it.

vicbarry
01-11-2003, 9:00 PM
i have noticed this with the 543. particuarly if near a PS2, DVD Player or Amp.

pwafer
09-11-2003, 9:19 AM
Hi all,

Just to let you know why you can get problems with 'low-energy' lamps and IR controllers.

It is because ELECTRONIC fluorescent fittings operate at high frequencies, to avoid flicker and enable lower running current (more efficient). The old magnetic control gear that you'll find in a £10 strip light operates at mains frequency (50Hz) and gives that nice flicker...

Newer (more expensive) commercial electronic control gear is now made with different operating frequencies to avoid such interference, but I suspect that your domestic fluorescents will not be made with such care due to cost restraints.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Paul.

PS: What's wrong with a good old tungsten lamp? If you dim it down by 80%, you'll quadruple the lamp life, save energy and have control while your watching a movie!

miketango75
11-11-2003, 7:58 AM
Thanks for the replies.

In a funny kind of a way I'm pleased I had problems...In my front room I've replaced all my Low Energy bulbs with 'normal' ones. I then dug out three unused lamp modules and swapped out the appliance ones. I then re-jigged my lighting pages on the pronto and now have several different lighting moods at a touch of a button.

More importantly the IR543 no longer crashes.

Ian.