Pioneer KRP-A Owners Thread - Part 7

Pure (is) the most accurate "consumer " picture preset to date.

But it's not perfect, needs tweaked regardless.

Pure on mine was (very) green tinged. But after Piers tweaked mine it looked an awful lot better

Yes, for a preset it's quite good, but by overhyped I mean alot of people talked it up to be the be all and end all.

The difference stephen saw comparing Pure to a proper calibration says it all.
 
Yeah, same here, but raising the B-High a few clicks sorts it. Without the proper instrumentation though you have no idea what you are doing to things as a whole.

Exactly, which is why I just let Gordon work his magic through the s/w and his experience.
 
My Pure before calibration was under saturated and a bit too dull but i didn't know any better and it looked well good enough, i will admit to using someone elses settings but not the popular one as they were way too dull on mine.

After Mark calibrated it it looked so much better and the extra brightness is unbelievable , i mean where the hell does it come from, i cant use pure now :(.
 
Looking at these pictures and looking at the tv showing the pictures it looks like my camera is making everything look like it oversaturates colours but it doesn't look like that looking at the screen, but you get an idea.
Pure one 1st, pure has been reset to factory default, look at how dark and unrevealing it seems to be.

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Then ISF Night

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And another night, oversaturated red and colour again again, amazing deep contrast too, taken from a moving picture so it may be a little blurred.

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My Pure before calibration was under saturated and a bit too dull but i didn't know any better and it looked well good enough, i will admit to using someone elses settings but not the popular one as they were way too dull on mine.

After Mark calibrated it it looked so much better and the extra brightness is unbelievable , i mean where the hell does it come from, i cant use pure now :(.

It's an amazing mode for gaming btw. Color +3 ,4,5,6 depending, and happy days imo. Shame to waste it completely.

Contrast 34-38 looks plenty bright too - for games wuth Pure.
 
It's an amazing mode for gaming btw. Color +3 ,4,5,6 depending, and happy days imo. Shame to waste it completely.

Contrast 34-38 looks plenty bright too - for games wuth Pure.

Yeah I agree, it is a good mode for gaming.

I think you need to be in that region for contrast for an acceptable brightness in Pure, atleast without calibration anyway.

******** said any higher than 32 is too high on a 50" though.
 
Yes, forgot to say.

If playing with no lights i have it as low as 27 or 28. But try to play games with light in the room because with gaming it hurts my peepers sometimes. Because concentration can make you not blink as much as normal.

Anyway my calibrated (Pure) settings... You can see at one time it was putting out green quite a bit by the post calibration numbers. Irrelevant at the end of the day on other screens but gives an idea.

Red high -3

Green high -4

Blue high +9

Red low -4

Green low - 4

Blue low - 5

Gamma 3
 
Yes, forgot to say.

If playing with no lights i have it as low as 27 or 28. But try to play games with light in the room because with gaming it hurts my peepers sometimes. Because concentration can make you not blink as much as normal.

Anyway my calibrated (Pure) settings... You can see at one time it was putting out green quite a bit by the post calibration numbers. Irrelevant at the end of the day on other screens but gives an idea.

Red high -3

Green high -4

Blue high +9

Red low -4

Green low - 4

Blue low - 5

Gamma 3

Crikey, that is an adjustment.

I'd say your brightness setting is a high enough value seeing as the green low is -4?
 
Crikey, that is an adjustment.

I'd say your brightness setting is a high enough value seeing as the green low is -4?

Hi yes brightness was +3, Gamma 3 for Pure.

These settings were remembered of the top of my head but i read my cali report for Pure again and realised i got green high wrong. It is actually -2 and not minus 4. But here is my report for Pure mode anyway...

500A, meter, Sencore OTC1000, Source, Sencore Videopro 400 series (rs232)

Pure

Manual

Gamma 3

Brightness 3

Contrast 32

Color -4

Tint 0

Sharpness -7

Low Red -4

Low Green -4

Low Blue -5

High Red -3

High Green -2

High Blue +9.

Obviously this is Pure mode and i can't access ISF Night and they will likely be much different. All i can remember is ISF Night is approximately 32FTL and Brightness +2. Which still looks black lights on OR off.
 
Crikey, that is an adjustment.

I'd say your brightness setting is a high enough value seeing as the green low is -4?

Hi yes brightness was +3, Gamma 3 for Pure.

These settings were remembered of the top of my head but i read my cali report for Pure again and realised i got green high wrong. It is actually -2 and not minus 4. But here is my report for Pure mode anyway...

500A, meter, Sencore OTC1000, Source, Sencore Videopro 400 series (rs232)

Pure

Manual

Gamma 3

Brightness 3

Contrast 32

Color -4

Tint 0

Sharpness -7

Low Red -4

Low Green -4

Low Blue -5

High Red -3

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High Green -2

High Blue +9.

Unfortunately a couple of pages are missing, like the post calibration snapshot as the little guy got hold of it not long ago :mad:

Obviously this is Pure mode and i can't access ISF Night and they will likely be much different. All i can remember is ISF Night is approximately 32FTL and Brightness +2. Which still looks black lights on OR off.
 
Thanks for posting that, quite interesting.

Was colour space 1 or 2 used by the way?

Hi,

It was color space 2. This was pre reset re adjustment of voltage for red tint i must stress though. About four months before. Although now it won't be done on this 500 again. There are a couple of obvious differences - the low end colors aren't as low, even obvious by eye, and the DVE&S&M blurays. If i remember rightly low red green and blue are roughly -1 ish post reset, i think green low might actually be 0. High colors are similar though except green high is -5 i think. But with the new 500 i will get pure and day and night modes done eventually :smashin:

You got ypur numbers handy ?...

We all know it's not really worth copying but interesting nonetheless
 
Hi,

It was color space 2. This was pre reset re adjustment of voltage for red tint i must stress though. About four months before. Although now it won't be done on this 500 again. There are a couple of obvious differences - the low end colors aren't as low, even obvious by eye, and the DVE&S&M blurays. If i remember rightly low red green and blue are roughly -1 ish post reset, i think green low might actually be 0. High colors are similar though except green high is -5 i think. But with the new 500 i will get pure and day and night modes done eventually :smashin:

You got ypur numbers handy ?...

We all know it's not really worth copying but interesting nonetheless

I'm just using the ISF Modes at present with my own settings. The display isn't calibrated.

Contrast 23

Brightness +1

Colour 0

Sharpness -12

Colour Space 2

Colour Temp Low

Enhancer Mode 2

Gamma points all 0

Everything else the usual.

===================

So your calibration was done before you adjusted the voltages and then you made your own changes afterwards was it?
 
Cool. Contrast at about 23 in the ISF modes is roughly 32FTL isn't it ?.

Yes post reset there was an (obvious) crushing of shadow details/blacks with the previous Pure settings in the low end colors (even with gamma 3 and brightness +3). I first noticed it on LA NOIRE in a sort of dingy nightclub in a corner. But the nearer they came back up closer to 0 (the low colors. All the shadow details started to come back. I kept gamma on 3 but reduced brightness to +2 or +1 depending
 
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Cool. Contrast at about 23 in the ISF modes is roughly 32FTL isn't it ?.

Yes post reset there was an (obvious) crushing of shadow details/blacks with the previous Pure settings in the low end colors (even with gamma 3 and brightness +3). I first noticed it on LA NOIRE in a sort of dingy nightclub in a corner. But the nearer they came back up closer to 0 (the low colors. All the shadow details started to come back. I kept gamma on 3 but reduced brightness to +2 or +1 depending

I'm not sure how many ftl 23 contrast is in the ISF Modes, but by eye, it looks roughly the same as 34 in Pure.

I found 23 to be comfortable in a dimmish room.

The ISF Modes look better to me than Pure.
 
Yes they definitely look a whole lot better, brighter cleaner white for a start :thumbsup:

Yep a more defined looking image too.

By the way, what were the values written in biro next to the calibrated ones for?

Were they your own settings pre calibration?
 
Yep a more defined looking image too.

By the way, what were the values written in biro next to the calibrated ones for?

Were they your own settings pre calibration?

Definitely.

I can't remember exactly but by the looks of the 39 contrast number, probably experimental pure settings for gaming in daylight. On my calibration disk/tv, white doesn't clip until 41. But there is more details at 37 38 & 39. 39 being the least
 
Definitely.

I can't remember exactly but by the looks of the 39 contrast number, probably experimental pure settings for gaming in daylight.

Ah I see.

Unusual aswell to see your calibrated colour at -4.

I'd have thought that to be undersaturated.
 
Ah I see.

Unusual aswell to see your calibrated colour at -4.

I'd have thought that to be undersaturated.

You would need to ask Piers that question. But for Pure, -4, seems to be the correct saturation. I have seen it many times in Europe from people's calibrated numbers posted online. Movie picture preset seems to be -3 on average for correct saturation apparently.

In the US it seems to be anything from +3 to +6 (average), or roughly these numbers for Pure mode
 
You would need to ask Piers that question. But for Pure, -4, seems to be the correct saturation. I have seen it many times in Europe from people's calibrated numbers posted online. Movie picture preset seems to be -3 on average for correct saturation apparently.

In the US it seems to be anything from +3 to +6 (average), or roughly these numbers for Pure mode
You can talk by what the average normally is but for accuracy and totally correct it will vary from each set and each specific calibration. Piers will rell you that too! - It is not the very best option by copying settings from one to another since no screen is 100% identical to the other.
 
Costas said:
You can talk by what the average normally is but for accuracy and totally correct it will vary from each set and each specific calibration. Piers will rell you that too! - It is not the very best option by copying settings from one to another since no screen is 100% identical to the other.

Precisely.

However contrast and brightness levels are consistent on a correctly working set.

The only reasons for colour at a minus value is the set is in colour space 1, or the greyscale is skewed. Normally ends up at 0 to +4.

As for greyscale you can't go for anyone else's settings. My original one were just to help get into the ballpark and everyone was warned that would not work for everyone.

If brightness is anywhere other than +1 or+ 2 then that should set alarm bells ringing.
 
You can talk by what the average normally is but for accuracy and totally correct it will vary from each set and each specific calibration. Piers will rell you that too! - It is not the very best option by copying settings from one to another since no screen is 100% identical to the other.

Think you misunderstood my posts.

Obviously mine was at -4 saturation because it's what my screen required at the time when Piers calibrated it on Pure mode pre reset. I merely said some averages that stood out in relevance to my post calibration numbers at the time.

I fully agree, i wouldn't recommend copying over any settings - not even color saturation settings.
 
Is it not pointless discussing actual figures on calibrated screens, as long as the screen produces the correct image the actual figures are a moot point, not transferable between sets anyway.
 

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